Satterfield Photography

May 27, 2022 - Note

In order to help the pages load a bit faster for all of us, I've decided to split the 2022 UK Page into Pages by Month.  Thus, I have archived March and will continue working on April and then May.  Until all the housekeeping is completed, only the page I am actively adding content to will be available.  So, say hello to UK April!!  

Also - please take note of the black square on the right side of the screen as you scroll through the photos.  It indicates that there is text associated with the photos, just click on the square to access the text.

April 1 - Llanidloes

Spent the day taking a walk about the area and organizing for a trip to Brecon Beacons National Park tomorrow.  The caravan is parked on a dead end road with farms on either side.  There are benches placed strategically around the grounds to offer views of the valley/sunsets and farms.  Since it has been raining and snowing, I didn't linger on any of the benches but did enjoy walking through farm country and hearing all the lambs.  Sadly, opportunities to watch them are lacking, partly due to the very narrow lane, but also because the thicket barriers are too high to see over in many spots.  I did find a few places where I could enjoy their antics as you can see.

April 2 - Llanidloes

I love how all of the signs are in both Welsh and English.  It makes it a trifle more difficult to follow them when driving - usually the Welsh is first so you can skip that and look at the English underneath, but not always.  There isn't a lot of time to read signs anyway so having it not be consistent can be a problem.  At least for me, I seem to be the only one needing street signs...  ^_^

Brecon Beacons National Park is a large area of land set aside much the way it is in America.  One difference is that, in this case at least, there are several small villages and towns that are within the park boundaries, but not bound by park rules.  And it may only be a result of the COVID pandemic that there are not nearly enough parking spaces for the people that want to enjoy the hikes and other attractions.  In a lot of places, the parking is done on the sidewalk next to the roadway and frequently, there are no available spaces at all.  Additionally, there are not many areas where the roadway is wide enough or has a parking area or even a layby (the British term for a small wide spot for parking alongside the road)  to get out and take photos of the beautiful countryside.

I found the walk I wanted to take to the Sgwd Gwladus waterfall.  I apparently misread some of the information regarding this waterfall as I expected to see smaller falls all along the trail.  While there were numerous, rapids and spots where the river flowed over rocks, the Sgwd Gwladus waterfall was the only waterfall I encountered.  It was a very enjoyable walk at any rate, notwithstanding the many people and dogs I encountered.  There was no option to sit and enjoy the sounds of the river, but that is perhaps for another time.  There are many other walks available for this park and I wish I had more time to explore them. 

Along the way to the park, I could see smoke from a grass fire and a bit further down the road was a burned over spot close to the road.  Thankfully, the fire was out by the time I returned.

April 3 - Llanidloes

Carmarthen!  Where Merlin was born and grew up and developed his power.  At least, according the the Mary Stewart novels that I love so much.  Today, of course, little remains of what Carmarthen would have looked like during Merlin's lifetime, but it was nice to visit anyway.  Until COVID, a B&B perched part way up what is known as Merlin's Hill offered a walk up their pathway to the Iron Age Hillfort where a view of Carmarthenshire awaited.  I didn't find a vantage point to take a photo of the hill and the B&B is closed.  I did take a walk on Merlin's Walk, a nice collection of shops along a cobblestone walkway near the hill and even had lunch at the Subway there.  ^_^  So much for ancient wizards.

Since I had a couple of driving options, I decided I would take a somewhat longer route to Carmarthen and stop in Devils Bridge to explore the Devil's Bridge Waterfall & Nature Trail.  Who would build three bridges one on top of the other?  The Welsh, apparently.  The original bridge (and the lowest) was built in medieval times, the second one in 1753 and upgraded twice, and the one currently used was built in 1901.  A story has grown up around the original bridge, hence the name.  Please see photo for the story.  ^_^

And, because I made a wrong turn leaving Devils Bridge, I found the Arch - erected to mark the Golden Jubilee of George III in 1810 by Thomas Johnes, owner of the nearby Hafod Estate.  It marks the point where the A4574 crosses the Cambrians to Rhayader and becomes the 'mountain road'.  There is a small car park and trailhead for 3 trails.

The route back to Llanidloes was the faster route so not much time for photos, however, I was finally presented with an opportunity to photograph the area with sunshine, so I found a convenient driveway and pulled into it.

April 4 and 5 - Llanidloes

Rain today and tomorrow so I will avail myself of the time to get some accounting work done.  Although I do have to drive down to the village to make a few phone call since I have no cell service here at the caravan.  Work went well, as did the phone calls.  And, I was able to finally capture a few photos of lambs at play.  Which came to an abrupt end when one of them became curious, trotted over to where I stood and promptly climbed through the gate and immediately forgot how to climb back.  A frantic few moments for me as I tried to gently encourage her out of the parking lot and back through the gate, she finally got there but did it the hard way, through the fence instead of the gate.  Made me wonder how often our Lord must look down on our struggles, taking the difficult path instead of the wide open easy gate He provides.

"Now therefore, if you will indeed obey my voice and keep my covenant, you shall be my treasured possession among all peoples, for all the earth is mine;"  ~ Exodus 19:5 (NIV)

April 6 - From Llanidloes, Wales to Ballincarroona, County Limerick, Ireland

What a long, long day!  Began with the drive from Wales to London at 5:30am in the rain.  Concerned about whether or not I should put more gas in the tank (I have to return the car with 1/4 tank and not sure how much I'll use getting to London) and whether or not I should wash the car (there is a L95 valet fee for dirty cars) and how I would do that anyway.  My host provided an excellent tip about a car wash right on the M4, my planned route.  However, since it was in the middle of the morning commute and my navigation app keeps me on the fastest route, I never made it all the way to the M4. I decided to trust that I would make it with the "petrol" I had and still have 1/4 tank left.  And I did!  And the car passed the clean test!  Yay!!!  Bad news, the shuttle to Heathrow only runs once an hour and I had just missed it...except it showed up about 5 minutes later, because it was running late.  So, I began the tedious process of checking in, dropping off bags (and paying the overweight penalty! ouch), and getting some lunch before take off.  The 1-hour flight was uneventful and had clouds for the only scenery.  Dublin airport is not nearly as large as Heathrow, but it took much longer to get through Customs and Immigration there than it did when I landed at Heathrow.  There were a very few people available to direct those of us that did not understand the signage.  But, we all managed to get through, I found my bag and headed for the rental car, where I was told that the liabilty coverage from my credit card company did not apply in Ireland and Northern Ireland and my only option to get a car was to purchase theirs.  After doubling the cost of the car, I picked up the car, where things got really interesting.  I had downloaded the Google Maps app as it recognized the EIR code for my Airbnb and the Apple app did not. Unfortunately, I found that my Google app did not provide voice directions (it still does not after 2 days of trying various solutions) thus in trying to read the directions and watch traffic at the same time, I circled the rental car parking lot twice and then ended up headed back to the airport.  I pulled over to regroup, decided that my Apple app would get me close enough (or at least out of Dublin!) so I turned it on and off I went.  Did I mention that it was raining in Dublin also?  Yes, and very windy to boot!!  And, soon I was in evening commute traffic trying to get to my destination before dark.  Once I knew I was close to the Airbnb, I switched to my Google app and found it, where I quickly unpacked and off to bed!

April 7 - Somewhere in County Limerick

As the heading suggests, there is a bit of mystery about where I really am.  According to the Airbnb listing, it is in Ballincarroona, the information notes at the house show the address as "Heaven Sent, Jamestown, Effin, County Limerick", and my phone's weather app thinks I'm in Kilmallock.  At any rate, now that I have marked this house as a location, I can again use my app for voice navigation; it is a little disconcerting to have it tell me to "turn left on Effin Road".    ^_^    And, the road sign doesn't say Effin Road, it says L1536.  Anyhow, I headed to Charleville about 10 minutes away and the closest town for groceries, etc.  The country side is a bit more open that Cornwall or Wales either one so it is a bit easier to see some of the surrounding countryside.  Fortunately I was able to find all that I needed in one place, except for a parking space, which seems to be always an issue.  Unlike most places so far, there is actually room to turn around in most parts of Ireland (so far anyway).  In Wales particularly, with so many one lane roads, if you miss your turn, you have to drive 10 miles on other one lane roads to get back on track.  You can't just back up and turn around.  And it seems to be the same in towns as well.  Unlike most parts of the US where there is usually a store with a big parking lot to pull into and retrace your route.  However, the people are mostly cheerful and helpful.  And I can almost always find an ancient building re-purposed for modern usefulness.  You don't have to look very hard to find history everywhere.  Note the church in the background of the photo of the Dairy Farmer fountain, more photos to come on another day - today there was a funeral in process.

April 8 - Effin 

Had several work items that needed attention, but the weather cleared a bit by the afternoon so I took the opportunity to drive a suggested loop through the Ballyhoura Mountains just south of the Airbnb.  It was a lovely drive and gave me a different perspective of Ireland.  Instead of green fields marked off by hedges, I found forested areas and even a "felling area" where trees were being harvested.  Several stacks of cut timber.  The loop also takes you through several small villages with interesting points to visit and information postings.  I found it interesting that, in Wales, the road signs were in English and also in Gaelic, but in Ireland they are in Irish Gaelic and then English, reversing the primary positions.   As you can see, life moves to a different rhythm in small towns, no matter what country they are in.  Although, I don't know if American dairy cows could be trained to walk up one road, turn a corner, and walk down another road as easily as these did.  The farmer simply stood at the corner to make sure everyone made the turn.  I didn't see the start or the end of the trail, but he appeared to be the only herder.  When the bus driver saw the situation, he turned off the engine and had a chat with the farmer.  I took the photos of the ruins I had stopped to see and left them still watching the cows go down the road.  The local shooting club outside of one village gives fair warning that if you park beyond the gate, your vehicle may be locked in.  Beautiful churches are found simply everywhere, this one attracted my attention with the red door!

April 9 - Effin

Annes Grove Gardens sounded like the perfect place to spend a rare sunny day.  "Anne’s Grove is an historic estate located near Castletownroche Co. Cork. It was the home of the Annesley family from the 1600s until 2015 when it was gifted to the Irish state and entered the care of the Office of Public Works.  The Office of Public Works has carried out extensive works to the house, outbuildings and gardens and it is planned to re-open the site to the public in 2022.  Richard Arthur Grove Annesley, inherited Anne’s Grove in 1892 and developed the landscape in the Robinsonian style in the early 1900s. He supported the plant-hunting expeditions led by Frank Kingdom-Ward to Tibet, Yunan Province, Burma and Bhutan and assembled an exotic collection of plants. Some of the spectacular flowering shrubs dating from this period include Cornus cousa, embothrium, eucryphia and hoheria."  This is description from their website, I can tell you that this is a place I could have stayed for days, just relaxing and enjoying the beautiful plantings and peaceful ambiance.  My tour began with a very informative conversation with Aileen and Mary, my guide.  Both ladies were happy to answer all my questions and offer suggestions of other places to visit, we spent quite a while together before my 1-hour tour began.  Since it was so early in the day, no one else arrived and I personal a personal tour.  Mary told me the names of so many flowers, trees, shrubs, and even birds that I cannot remember many of them.  The Awbeg River that flows through the property was actually routed into three separate flows near the house.  The original riverbed, one flow for a smaller stream to flow through the garden vistas and the last to be used for irrigating the pastures.

To learn more about the Robinsonian style landscape.

April 10 - Effin

As I write this, it is April 29th.  This is what happens when you have company on your trip, I picked up my daughter on April 10th and dropped her off at Edinburgh Airport on April 27th.

So, on April 10 I drove from Effin to Dublin (about 3 hours) and we began the tandem adventure from the airport.  I learned that just getting into and out of the airport can be a challenge, parking garages tend to fill up quickly and the exit isn't what I am used to.  As with many other daily tasks, the process is a bit different.  At Dublin airport, you pay for your parking at a kiosk in the lobby of the airport before you get to your car, then insert the paid parking card into the machine on the way out of the garage.  Getting out of Dublin proved to be a challenge as well.  One missed turn and you find yourself driving through town centre.  Every largish town has a town centre, where cars are parked on both sides of a narrow street full of tourist shops and pubs, making it a one lane road so taking turns with cars meeting you is the order of the day.  Driving is complicated by tourists simply changing sides of the street wherever and whenever they choose without a glance in either direction to watch for traffic.  Dublin is no exception, but their town centre is bigger than most!!  

From Dublin we drove through the Wicklough Mountains National Park to Glendalough.  The topography in the park is very different from what you generally think of as Ireland.  More trees and fewer green fields.  We passed a spot where several logs had been piled up ready for taking to the sawmill.  Glendalough is a glacial valley in County Wicklow, Ireland, renowned for an Early Medieval monastic settlement founded in the 6th century by St Kevin.  We spent a couple of hours just walking through the ruins of buildings and the various monuments and gravestones.  The cloudy weather added to the haunting, melancholy of the site.

Then it was back to Effin to get her settled in and plan the rest of the adventure.

April 11 - Effin

Kilkenny Castle is a wonderful tour, we spent several hours going through all the rooms.  There is so much to see and take in - it is largely a Victorian remodelling of the thirteenth century defensive Castle.  The Great Gallery is first and foremost a picture gallery, but in 1904 it was transformed into a banquet hall to accomodate entertaining King Edward VII.  The castle was originally built in the late 12th century in order to command the high ground on the River Nore.  It was purchased in the 14th century by James Butler and was the home of the Butler family until they abandoned it in the early 20th century.  It is now under the direction of the Office of Public Works.  There are wonderful views of the Town of Kilkenny from the windows of the upper rooms.

Had to pay a couple of tolls on today's trip and noticed a sign that mentioned that M50 tolls had to be paid within 24 hours to avoid penalties.  Made me think - - yep, I remembered driving on M50 coming from Dublin to Effin.  Thus, I went online to see if I had incurred any penalties or if the rental company pays the tolls on behalf of the renter and then adds it to the bill (this is how it is often handled in the US).  No, the rental company doesn't do that.  In fact, if they are forced to get involved in toll payments, an additional L60 administrative fee is added on, things the rental company should let you know but they don't.  No penalties, in fact, no toll fee showing at all, so I paid for one anyhow just in case.  It is almost impossible to navigate Dublin without incurring any tolls, especially if you are using a phone app for sat/nav.  Note to self - next time check the box that says to Avoid Tolls....

April 12 - Effin

Today’s agenda was the Torc Waterfall,  Muckross House, Killarney National Park and Ross Castle, the Gap of Dunloe and the Ladies View.  Sounds busy, but it included a couple of “find a place to park and take a few photographs”. And, the Gap of Dunloe was a matter of surviving on the twisty, narrow road that winds through rocks and streams of water with hardly any passing places and hope for a place to get some photographs.  We planned the route to make a big circle to save time and gas. 

The Torc waterfall is a fairly short hike along a stream and has a couple of viewpoints to choose from. Unfortunately, the rain that has been ever-present stayed with us the whole way and, in fact began to increase in volume before we got back to the car.  Nonetheless, the cloudy, foggy weather lent a haunting mood to the photos. However, both photographers were wet and cold; rain gear kept my upper body dry but did nothing for my feet and legs.  The self-storing rain jacket was one of my better finds, just wish it had pockets for keeping the camera dry as well.

Tonya had planned a jaunting car trip around Muckross House and grounds, but we decided that making that trip in the rain wasn’t going to provide quite the experience we had in mind so we passed it up in favor of spending more time inside the house and out of the rain.  A good decision it turned out since when we made our way back outside, the rain had let up and the rock garden was a great place to wander and find treasures to admire.  The formal garden was beautiful as well and the lawn and landscaping down to the lake was stunning.  We did enjoy roaming about and had a lovely conversation with a gentleman who brings his dog down each day to “get ‘e’s feet wet” next to the boat dock.  When asked about the Irish language, he told us that it is actually Gaelic; however, there is Irish Gaelic and then there is Scottish Gaelic and they are NOT the same. 

Killarney National Park has some unusual scenery, based upon what you would expect in Ireland.  A lot of it reminded me of the mountain areas of southern New Mexico where I have spent much of my life camping.  Sadly, like most National Parks I've encountered and unlike what we're used to in America, there are few places available to park and take photos.  The roads are usually busy and often very narrow so driving is the priority.  Occasionally I was able to stop in the middle of the road for Tonya to take photos out her window and she will have to share those.  

Ross Castle was a delight!  The ruin is safe enough to allow visitors to actually walk around, up and down, and take photos to their heart's content.  Americans, especially, seem to be taken by the castles.  We have log cabins  and stone houses in our heritage, where they have been preserved, but not a stone castle among them.  For me, at least, they represent an era of elegance and grace for the Lords and Ladies at least, albeit, living in those times has been much romanticized in books and films.  And, not something I long to recreate.  But, it is fun to gaze and wonder and fill in the gaps in your imagination with what might have happend to the people who actually did live through those times.

Ladies View is part of Killarney National Park, about 12 miles from Killarney on the N71 road as you go towards Kenmare. The view here is probably the best known of Killarney and is very popular. Queen Victoria’s ladies-in-waiting visited here during the royal visit in 1861. They were so taken with the view that it was named after them. The photos posted on the Killarney NP website are much better than the ones I took, the sun is shining and they were mostly taken in the summer, not early spring so pretty greens instead of browns.

The Gap of Dunloe is a very narrow, twisty road through anarrow mountain pass in County Kerry, Ireland. It marks the boundary between the MacGillycuddy’s Reeks (you HAVE to love that name, especially if you are an I Love Lucy fan!) in the west and the Purple Mountains Group range to the east. After our trip I learned that, while meeting the oil truck certainly wasn’t fun, it could as well have been a jaunting car – read horse-drawn wagon –which would have been much more difficult. Apparently not all the jaunting car drivers believe they should have to share the road with modern vehicles, making the backing up and/or pulling around past each other a bit unpleasant.  In our case, I saw the oil truck coming down to meet us where I could pull into a passing place just before the hairpin turn and just wait there until he was able to get around us.  Sadly, the tourist in front of me did not see him at all.  The poor oil truck driver had to help both cars in front of us move to where he could come around them.  There is an art (which I don’t claim to have mastered, but have at least experienced) to meeting a much wider vehicle at a very narrow passing place. It involves a sort of dance where each driver “eases” past the other inches at a time…a bit harrowing to say the least.  Especially when the other vehicle is longer than yours.

April 13 - Effin

Another full schedule today.  Poulnabrone, a Neolithic site in The Burren, a karst.  From Encyclopedia Brittanica "karst,  terrain usually characterized by barren, rocky ground, caves, sinkholes, underground rivers, and the absence of surface streams and lakes. It results from the excavating effects of underground water on massive soluble limestone."  Definitely not what you picture when you think of the Emerald Isle.  Haunting place.  As we made our way back to the car, we stopped to chat with the security guard.  We noticed that some cars in Ireland have letters on the windshield and rear window.  L, R, etc.  I asked him what the letters were for and he said it was a way to identify the skillset of driver.  L indicates a Learner (just learning how to drive and not allowed on some Motorways), N is a novice and you remain a novice for 18 months before you can remove the N from your vehicle.  Not sure how they handle it if more than one driver uses the vehicle and they have different designations...

The Cliffs of Mohr was beautiful if still windy and chilly.  At least the sun finally came out for a bit and while it was not a great time of day for shooting we got some pretty good photos anyway.  And, then we spent a lot of time going through the various gift shops, found a few treasures!

Then it was time for our tour of Dungaire Castle, followed by Dinner at the Castle as a gift from Tonya.  We made arrangements upon entering the castle for our tour to make sure we would be able to come back after closing and before dinner to change into our dresses.  We were assured that there would be no problem and that there was a space where we could change.  There was a lot to see, the castle is very well-maintained and has several areas showing what it looked like during its glory days.  As promised, we were able to change after the tour, actually sharing the space with a couple of the performers.  We were entertained by our very own Court Jester and Court Songstress and Royal Harp Player.  Many songs, skits, and much useful information regarding the history of the castle.  Sadly, photography was not allowed as their costumes were gorgeous and they were highly entertaining.  The food wasn't bad either!!!  All in all a very memorable evening.

April 14 - Effin

Rock of Cashel.  "Set on a dramatic outcrop of limestone in the Golden Vale, the Rock of Cashel, iconic in its historic significance, possesses the most impressive cluster of medieval buildings in Ireland. Among the monuments to be found there is a round tower, a high cross, a Romanesque chapel, a Gothic cathedral, an abbey, the Hall of the Vicars Choral and a fifteenth-century Tower House.  Originally the seat of the kings of Munster, according to legend St. Patrick himself came here to convert King Aenghus to Christianity. Brian Boru was crowned High King at Cashel in 978 and made it his capital."  Courtesy of Heritage Ireland

Hore Abbey.  "Hore was the only Cistercian monastery in Ireland where the cloister was positioned to the north of the abbey. It is thought that the site of the Rock of Cashel, close to the north of the abbey, may explain this departure from the usual arrangement. The ruins are now surrounded by fields of sheep and cattle and can be accessed by the public." Courtesy of megalithicireland.com.  We arrived to find a group of 11-12 year olds on a field trip break.  This is Easter Break in Ireland, which lasts for two weeks, culminating on Easter Monday, a Bank Holiday.  As usually happens, Tonya and I went different ways each looking for their own photographs.  I happened to mention to one of the adults in the group that some of the boys were getting rather rambunctious, climbing on the ruins and trying to push each other off the tower stairs.  He settled them down a bit and I went looking for Tonya.  She was surrounded by 8 or 9 of the girls all firing questions at her about America.  She introduced me and we both spent the next half hour or so fielding all kinds of questions as we were joined by some of the boys.  How long are you here for?  What are you seeing?  Where are you going next?  Do you have Targets?  Do you have Walmart?  What do you call a bathroom?  Can you say this?   The "can you say this" was mostly the boys trying to get us to say "pog mo thoin" which is an Irish Gaelic vulgarity meaning "kiss my ass".  A couple of the boys were more interested in politics than sports (yes, we have football, but it isn't the same as yours, and what you call football, we call soccer) and wanted to know what we thought of Trump and Biden and who did we vote for.  I answered that, in America, the vote was confidential and private.  We had a blast with them and hope that they felt the time was a positive and useful interaction.  I think we were probably the topic of conversation at several dinner tables that night. 

Cahir Castle. "Cahir Castle is one of Ireland’s largest and best-preserved castles. It stands proudly on a rocky island on the River Suir.  The castle was was built in the thirteenth century and served as the stronghold of the powerful Butler family. So effective was its design that it was believed to be impregnable, but it finally fell to the earl of Essex in 1599 when heavy artillery was used against it for the first time. During the Irish Confederate Wars it was besieged twice more."  Courtesy of Heritage Ireland.  This was quite a change from the experience at Hore Abbey.  For one thing, these are not really ruins, the castle has undergone extensive renovation, so much so that it has been the location for several films and TV shows, including Excaliber and The Tudors.  As you look at the photographs you can see why it was an excellent choice for filming.  For another, rather than being out in a field surrounded by sheep and cattle, Cahir is in the center of town, surrounded by a park, walking paths, and city traffic.  How fun it must be to take a stroll around the castle on your morning or evening walk.  

April 15 - Effin

Today started out much, much better than it finished.  Although, the finish did have some great moments.  As always, we had a full agenda!  Beehive huts, Anascaul, Lispole, the Dingle Peninsula, Dunquin, Ballyferriter.  And, as always, we stopped when we could to photograph cool stuff, beautiful coastlines, hillsides full of gorse, pretty buildings, and clouds, clouds, clouds.  One thing you have to say about Ireland - if you like photographing clouds (and I do!) this is the place to be!  Along the way you can sometimes ignite curiousity in the local wildlife.  Calves, like children, are the same around the world.  Park next to their pasture and get out and they immediately come to investigate.

The Beehive Huts can be found scattered along the roads that traverse the Dingle Peninsula.  Both the R560 (the northernmost road) and the N86 (a slightly larger southern route) offer views of these medieval houses built by stonemasons.  They didn't use mortar, instead they stacked rings of stone one on top of another, positioning each layer slightly further inward until a snug, pointed roof was formed a cap.  This method of corbelling has been used for thousands of years in Ireland, thus dating the houses is very difficult.  Skellig Michael, a very small, very rugged island off the coast of Ireland in County Kerry is home to some pf these remarkable houses and even a monastery.  It is an impossibly beautiful and amazing location, so much so that it was the location used to film Luke Skywalker's hideaway in the Star Wars sagas. Filming on Skellig Michael is not allowed due to its archaelogical nature so the Star Wars crew built replicas of the monastery and buildings on private land on Ceann Sibeal (Sybil Head) and once filming was complete, it was all dismantled.   I would have loved to make the boat trip to Skellig Michael to tour and photograph; however, tours are very, very limited and no seats were available so it goes on the Next Time photo bucket list.

Now for the ending.  As you can see, we covered a lot of ground today and it was getting dark when we arrived back at the house in Effin.  That's when I discovered that I had no key to the house!!!  We pulled everything out of the car and we both went through all of it.  Nothing!  I knew that our host did not live close by, but her father-in-law did.  So I tried calling and went to voice mail.  Tonya went knocking on doors in hopes of finding a neighbor that might have a spare key while I sent a text message via Airbnb.  The next door neighbor did not have a key, but did know where the father-in-law lived and offered to drive me there.  About that time, I got a call from the host saying that her father was on the way with a key and would be there in about twenty minutes.  We were invited in for a cup of tea (which naturally included biscuits to go with) and we had a great conversation with our newly met neighbors while waiting for the key to arrive.  I had been convinced that I was living in the area alone because I had not seen nor heard anyone since I arrived.  Not the older gentleman who lived across the road, nor the couple with 2 children living next door.  Maybe it is a testament to how well the houses are constructed that we never heard them and, of course, the cold, rainy weather was not conducive for anyone to spend much time outdoors.  Even though we were gone all day pretty much every day, I just thought it was very unusual not to have heard them at all.  At any rate, it was nice to spend some time with them even though it was our last night there.  A perfect example of how God can bring good things out of bad situations.  We were both a bit panicky there for a while, but in the end really enjoyed the opportunity to get to know some of the locals.  Rest assured, my new rule is that the key to my lodging is attached to the keys for the car. 

April 16 - Rivendell

As the name implies, the name for this particular Airbnb was changed after the owner fell in love with Lord of the Rings, thanks to the Peter Jackson movies.  Unfortunately, due to our sightseeing schedule, we arrived fairly late in the afternoon and left pretty early the next morning.  It is an enchanting and peaceful area surrounded by farms and I found the Lanarks Scottish lambs  too cute for words when I went for a short walk before breakfast.  

Alittle shopping to do in Galway and then a very short stroll (due to wind andrain!) along the Salthill Promenade, complete with “kicking the wall” toconfirm completion of the walk.  What canI say, it is a local tradition. We decided it would be a good place to have breakfast after shopping.  Tonya decided on the Full Irish Breakfast including Black and White Pudding.  I tasted each, but found I really didn't like the taste and knowing how it is made didn't help.  In truth, it was a little blah... Growing up in New Mexico, my preferences tend to be toward the spicier end of the scale.

Then it was on to Cong Village, the Quiet Man Bridge and White O'Morn Cottage, filming locations for The Quiet Man starring John Wayne (Bill's favorite actor) and Maureen O'Hara (an obvious local favorite).  In addition I had a personal goal in mind.  Unable to fulfill my goal of a glass of beer in an Irish Pub on St. Patrick's Day, I wanted to have that glass in the pub where John Wayne enjoyed a pint in the movie.  It is now the Pat Cohan Bar, but alas, it was closed.  However, we did find Danagher's Pub nearby so we had our toast there instead.  Tonya struck up a conversation with a kind gentleman who informed us that the best way to actually enjoy Guinness is to add a bit of black currant syrup, "just a wee bit".  It did actually make it somewhat more drinkable for a wine drinker and a rum aficionado.  The bridge and Cong Village were easy enough to locate and spend time in, but we had some difficulty with White O'Morn Cottage.  One report said it had been torn down, another said it was available for photo ops, so we drove in search.  Found it up a narrow one-track road.  Looks like it is under renovation, but the new owners appear to be in residence.  I'm sure they would not have appreciated our asking them to let us roam around take photos, so we settled for a photo of the rock driveway marker and left them in peace.  I suppose they are used to having strangepeople drive up their very narrow lane to take photos of the white rockmarker. 

We planned to round off the day with a trip to Kylemore Abbey near Westport, however, we decided that touring the garden in the rain wasn't going to be all that much fun, so headed for our Airbnb nearWestport, stopping off for some fish & chips in Buckos Bar in Castlebar instead. 

April 17 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Driving from Rivendell to our next lodging in Derry, Northern Ireland, we crossed the border out of Ireland and into the United Kingdom in Northern Ireland.  It took me a little while to figure out that we had done that, but I noticed that suddenly we had many license plates that looked like the ones I'd seen in London, instead of the ones we saw in Ireland.  There is no such thing as a "border crossing" just maybe a change in the road names.  We made many stops along the way for photos of coastline, pastures, small harbors, former whaling villages, and of course rivers.  Every time we stopped alongside a pasture, the occupants, whether sheep or cows, came running up to the fence just in case we might be there to feed them.  Sometimes it ended up being quite a funny lamb stampede, that, of course wasn't caught on film.  We were too busy laughing!  What a sight!!

Our only scheduled stop was Castle Donegal and it was quite something.  Would have been nicer without the ever-present rain but at least it was dry on the inside.  I love to see how many of these historic buildings are being preserved for future generations.  In years past, many of the castles, homes, and fortified buildings fell into disrepair and were using for building materials for new structures, losing any opportunity for archaelogical study.  Perhaps there should be no blame for people using what is at hand when they need it, but it is nice to know that some were saved for us to see and enjoy.

After a pretty full day of driving and stopping to photograph, we finally arrived in Derry, unfortunately, just in time for rush hour!  Yikes, I had to make several passes before we found the correct address and then found that we had to park half a block away and around the corner!  So, we arrived at the proper door with heavy suitcases in tow, and then had to call our host so he could provide information for us to actually access our lodging.  This was one of the more complicated "check ins" as we had no information at all prior to arriving at the door.  By the time we got all our belongings and settled in, we decided that home delivery would work for dinner.  That's when the next bit of trouble began.  Ordering from the UK version of Uber Eats doesn't work online as there is no way to provide the correct billing address for your credit card in the US when you have to provide the delivery address in Northern Ireland.  So, the card was declined.  I finally had to call several other places to find one where I could actually speak to someone over the phone to provide the credit card info and get a pizza delivered!!  Pizza, in Northern Ireland!!!  It was pretty good, but not what we originally had in mind.  ^_^

April 18 - Derry, Northern Ireland

Today was a hiking day so we got started pretty early.  First was the Giant's Causeway, an ancient natural formation of hexagonal basalt interlocking columns on the north coast of County Antrim about an hour north of Belfast.  According to Irish mythology, the giant Fionn Mac Cumhaill had an ongoing rivalry with a fellow giant in Scotland named Benandonner.  Benandonner said that if he could ever get to Ireland he would make sure that Fionn never fought again, but since he couldn't swim, he would spare Fionn's life.  Whereupon, Fionn tore apart the cliffs and began to build a pathway across the sea so they could fight after all.  Benandonner was tricked into thinking that Fionn was much bigger than he and he fled back to Scotland, destroying the Causeway in the process.  Today there are a couple of circular trails that go along the cliff edge and down to the sea level.  The columns look anything but natural - they appear to have been carved - until you grasp the enormous size of them.  As you can see, the Causeway is a very popular stop for tourists and locals alike.  We hiked the Red Trail along the top of the coast and then down to sea level, making our way back to the Causeway.  We decided on lunch at The Nook before heading for our next destination.  A very busy place, great scones!!

Dunluce Castle was first built in the 13th century and later became the home of the chief of Clan MacDonnell of Antrim.  It changed hands many times over the next several years, but remained the seat of the Earl of Antrim until the impoverishment of the MacDonnells in 1690, following the Battle of the Boyne and the Clan picked the losing side of King James.  Since that time, the castle has deteriorated and was scavenged for parts to serve as materials for nearby buildings - as has happened with so many castles throughout the United Kingdom.  It has recently become a tourist hotspot as a film location for the Game of Thrones.  It was used as the Seat of House Greyjoy, the great castle of Pyke.  Walking through it I was enthralled with the absolutely stunning views it commands of the Northern Ireland coastline and the precariousness of it's location on the cliff.

Finally, Glenoe Waterfall!  It wasn't easy to find, even with navigation.  And, navigation once again deserted us at a crucial moment.  However,  I have learned that if you are close, you can usually keep taking roads until you find the right one.  In this case, the road to a little visited beautiful waterfall that offered hopes of a quiet time of contemplation after the crowds we had encountered at the Giant's Causeway and Dunluce Castle.  That "little visited" part was a huge factor in our not being able to find it.  Not much by way of signage but we did manage to find it.  I don't blame the locals at all for wanting to keep it quiet and pristine, if I lived nearby, I might be tempted to misdirect lost tourists until they gave up!  We didn't expect to find the bit of local color that we did after the short hike from the car park to the waterfall.  Just as we were getting set for photos, a local gentleman stripped off his shirt (thank goodness ONLY his shirt) and dove into the pool, swam to the waterfall and then just stood there - - underneath the waterfall!!  Mind you, it was approximately 42 degrees, chilly enough for long sleeves and pants.  We waited patiently for him to swim back and when I mentioned it was a bit chilly for swimming, his response was that "NO, it's verra COLD!"  He said he had been working for 4 hours in the cemetery (maybe the caretaker?) and felt in need of refreshing before going home.  We wished him well, took our photos and headed for home as well.

April 19 - Dublin, Ireland

We drove through the Mourne Mountains from Derry to Dublin, but, sadly, there were no opportunities to pull off for photos.  Not even a chance to stop in the middle of the road so that Tonya could take a fast photo out the window, way too much traffic going way too fast!  The highways take you through coastal areas, high mountains (one of the highest peaks in Northern Ireland is Slieve Donard), sparkling loughs (lakes), rocky outcrops, and forest areas.  Navigation stayed with us the entire trip, thank goodness, as we made several highway changes between Derry and Dublin. 

We arrived in Dublin via the worlds longest underground tunnel!  Well, maybe not THE longest, but pretty darn long.  The Dublin Port Tunnel is part of the M50 Motorway, a major artery into Dublin.  At 2.8 miles in length, it is longer than any road tunnel in the US.  My previous experience with the Eisenhower Tunnel on I-70 in Colorado (1.697 miles) did not prepare me.  Maybe it was being on the "wrong" side of the road, but it made me nervous.  Top speed limit is 80k (approximately 50 mph) and everyone pretty much keeps to that even though the standard speed on the M50 is 120k.  Tonya took the photo with my phone, not a chance I was taking any hands or concentration off the driving!

We only had one night in Dublin as we were flying out to Edinburgh the next day.  We arrived fairly early, found our Airbnb for the night, and went out to explore a little and maybe find a place to eat dinner.  Tonya and my navigation system seem to have a knack for taking us right into the Towne Centre of every city, town, and village.  Dublin was no different.  Mind, Towne Centres are known for narrow streets (usually one way) with tourist shops lining both sides of the street, which means tourists walking out into the road at random moments and going in random directions.  We found whatever shop it was we were looking for, but, of course, there was no where to park.  So, we found a parking garage; another one of those with very narrow lanes, very narrow parking spaces, and very few spaces except on the very top floors.  *SIGH*  We did some shopping, but couldn't find a place to eat.  Either they were closed or a booking (reservation) was required.  Thus, we returned and began looking again for home delivery.  Unfortunately with the same result, trying to order online meant the credit card wouldn't go through so we were limited to places we could actually order on the phone.  One place we tried for a little local flavor found me in conversation with a gentleman (who shall remain nameless) who responded to my explanation regarding why we were unable to order online with, "I hate Americans!  You're all alike!  You want everybody to change their ways to suit you!  But, please don't tell my boss, I'd get fired if he knew I said that.  But, it's true, I hate you all!"  I laughed at him, told him politely that he should lose his job for saying those things and said goodbye.  I was again able to order a pizza on the phone and paid with the credit card by phone.  I hope that young man finds a job he is better suited for.

We did enjoy the amenities we found in this Airbnb.  It offered a mini-fridge, coffee, and dining table.  They didn't lie, but we did get a kick out of just how mini the fridge was!

April 20 - Dublin, Ireland to Edinburgh, Scotland

Our primary task for today was to drive to Dublin, turn in the "hire" car, fly to Edinburgh, pick up a new rental car and drive to Fort William, Scotland.  All went well until we landed in Edinburgh.  We retrieved our luggage, including my monster bag and monster carryon, dubbed by Tonya  "Big Bertha" and "Miss Piggy", respectively.  I called the rental agency and was given directions, of a sort, to their shuttle area and arrived after a walk of about 1/4 mile only to find that it was not, in fact, the rental car shuttle place but we had overshot.  We were given additional directions to get back to the shuttle but were still unable to locate the correct spot.  I called the car place again and the gentleman was very helpful, at first.  His strong Irish brogue was very difficult to follow and he finally became a bit belligerent, whereupon I hung up on him and we set out again.  We finally found the shuttle after walking what felt like miles dragging all our luggage with us and got aboard for the trip to pick up our car.  I recognized the voice behind the desk and we ended up having a good laugh at the difficulties in language, terminology, and accents between us.  I asked for a vehicle with car play available on a screen to facilitate driving directions and he said that the only one he had available had just come back in with damage to the entire passenger side.  Apparently the previous driver had side-swiped a fence or something.  We told him we didn't care how it looked as long as it was functional, we loaded up and off we went.  He did warn us that it also hadn't been fueled up yet, so we tried to get to a station right away.  Sadly, the first thing I did was make a wrong turn and ended up on the Motorway with limited exits and no stations.  We made to the first exit, returned to our starting point and found a station right away.

After several photo op stops along the way, we arrived in Fort William, found our lodging, unpacked, and walked down the road to Towne Centre for some shopping and dinner.  Then back home to prepare for the ride tomorrow on the "Hogwart's Express", the Jacobite train that runs between Fort William and Mallaig each day, crossing the Glen Finnan Viaduct and traversing some beautiful Scottish landscapes along the way.

April 21 - Fort William, Scotland

At last!!  The day we have both been waiting for has arrived!!  Today we ride the Hogwart's Express, otherwise known as the Jacobite Train, from Fort William to Mallaig.  The train leaves at 10:15 so plenty of time to walk down to the station and find breakfast before boarding.  West Coast Railways operates the Jacobite Train with daily runs between Fort William and Mallaig.  The train was originally built in 1937 and was in service in various locations throughout the United Kingdom until 1963 when 297 steam locomotives were sent to a scrapyard.  Along with 212 others, it was rescued by the developing railway preservation movement.  The transformation of Olton Hall, the formal name of the locomotive, from rusting and rotting to Harry Potter superstar is remarkable and would not have been possible except for the passion of train restoration enthusiasts and companies such as West Coast Railways. 

The train runs from under the shadow of Ben Nevis along Loch Elt and through some of the most beautiful areas of western Scotland, crossing the Glenfinnan Viaduct and passing by the Glenfinnan Monument.  The Monument pays tribute to the Jacobite clansmen who fought and died for the cause of Prince Charles Stuart and marks the site where he raised his standard on August 19, 1745, after landing from France before marching south.

The service on the train includes a friendly lady with a trolley of snacks to sell, including Chocolate Frogs and Every Flavour Beans.  There are lots of Harry Potter souvenirs available as well as miniature bottles of whisky.   ^_^  We shared a table with a couple from Aberdeen who were making a 2nd trip on the train, the first having been 15 years prior.  It was interesting to hear what had changed and what had not.  They had their original souvenir program from the first trip and we compared it to our new ones.  We enjoyed sharing ideas and questions about the local politics, the upcoming Queen's Jubilee, the Outlander series, Harry Potter movies, COVID, and vacations in general.

Mallaig dates back to the 1840s mostly as a fishing village until the West Highland Line extended to the village from Fort William.  It is now known as a significant ferry port to Skye.  Even with a new tourist boom, it remains primarily a port.  We had a delightful time exploring and shopping during our 2 hour layover before boarding the train back to Fort William.  Fortunately we were spared Dementors, flying cars, and all other magic mischief!!

April 22 - Fort William to Staffin, Isle of Skye

Getting to the Isle of Skye was our main goal for today, but as always, we had stops planned along the way.  One for Eilean Donan Castle and the other for Dunvegan Castle.  We had booked a tour for Dunvegan Castle but wanted to take some photos of the outside of Eilean Donan.  I did not know at the time that it had been featured very prominently in so many films, most notably, the opening scene of Highlander.  Dunvegan Castle, on the other hand, is a very popular tourist stop.  Along with tours of the castle and gardens, they also offer boat trips to visit the seal colony and fishing.  There are cottages for rent, a campsite, and it is available for weddings and corporate gatherings.  In addition to the planned stops, we found interesting things along the road to stop and photograph.

Of course, to get to Skye from mainland Scotland you must drive across a bridge - - a very long bridge and everyone knows that bridges aren't really my favorite things to drive on...  That said, I found that I wasn't really all that nervous, I guess between my trips across the Mississippi last spring and the many, many bridges I've had to cross in the UK, I am getting over that particular phobia.  The scenery in the Highlands is breathtaking to say the least, especially when the sun decides to shine.  For a change, we had a few spots wide enough to pull over and take photos and we took advantage of it.  All the recent rain also meant that everything was pretty and green.

We spent quite a lot of time at Dunvegan, touring the castle and the gardens.  It is one of the greatest Hebridean castles and the only Highland fortress to have been continuously occupied by the same family for 800 years.  It was also a filming location for Highlander and many other films.  The castle contains many beautiful paintings and important heirlooms such as the mystical Fairy Flag and Sir Rory Mor's (15th Chief) drinking horn and gourd.  There is  a lock of Prince Charlie's hair, a portrait of Flora MacDonald, heroine of the Rising, The Great Sword of Dunvegan, a chain mail shirt, and a couple of wax figures depicting life in the castle from long ago, including one of a prisoner kept in the dungeon.  That one was a bit creepy.  The one of the lady on the stair with a serving tray wasn't particularly scary, but a little startling when you come on it unexpectedly.

April 23 - Isle of Skye

First stop today was Kilt Rock and Mealt Falls.  Kilt Rock is a 200-foot high sea cliff on the Eastern coast of Skye.  The columns are made of hard basalt rock standing on top of softer sandstone.  The formation looks like the folds of a kilt from a distance.  In the foreground you can see Mealt Falls.  This 80-foot waterfall plunges from the sea cliffs directly into the Sound of Raasay.  We walked along the cliff for a little way and found a viewpoint down onto the ruins of a local bothy, used during the heyday of salmon fishing along these shores.  Men would stay here and go home twice a week.  This shoreline was also used until the 1950s to clean, dry, and ship diatomite, a chalky white clay found in Loch Cuithir about 4 miles inland.

Lealt Falls was a disappointment, as we could not find a way down from the highway to take proper photographs.  I see from others' work that there is a way, but we were not able to find it.  Photos from above just don't do it justice at all!

On to the high point of the day, the climb up to the Old Man of Storr, probably the most famous walk on the Island, definitely the busiest. The 'Old Man' is a large pinnacle of rock that stands high and can be seen for miles.  It is part of the Trotternish Ridge and was created by a massive landslide, creating one of the most photographed landscapes in the world.  Just one of the things that make Skye a unique gift from God.  It is an out and back hike of about 2 1/2 miles with about a 700 foot elevation gain/loss.  Sounds easy, except that on this particular day our uphill climb included walking into sustained winds of 40mph with gusts of 50+!!  There were a couple of times, I thought I would actually get blown off the mountain!  And, I had to stop a few times to turn my back to the climb to let my face thaw out.  Did I mention that, the sun notwithstanding, the temperature was a very cool 36 degrees not counting the wind chill?  All that said, the views were absolutely worth the work and the discomfort!!  I don't think anyone could visit Skye and still doubt that there is a God who designed this delightful planet for our enjoyment!!

Bride's Veil Falls was our last stop.  While it wasn't as spectacular as I was expecting, it was beautiful nonetheless.  I suspect the lack of  recent rain had something to do with it as there wasn't a lot of water volume, but we were happy to avoid the rain for a change.

April 24 - Isle of Skye

We began our day with a hike at the Quiraing, a trail through some of the most spectacular scenery yet!  We did not do the entire 4.5 miles as we had many stops to make today, but we did make it about 2 miles in and then back out the same way.  Truth be told, the trail also began to be balanced just a bit more precariously along the cliff face than I was totally comfortable with.  And, since the clouds and rain were back with us, the trail was also a bit slippery.  But, what a beautiful place nonetheless.  Oh, my gosh, God must have been carving with the green pallet when He created this area.

After a short break, it was on to the Museum of Island Life, which promised a glimpse into an old Highland village.  Unfortunately, it was still closed for the winter so we had to make do with some exterior photos.  We were happy to see that they raise Highland cows, so we were able to see them up close.

A short drive up the hill is Kilmuir Graveyard, the burial place of Flora MacDonald who saved Prince Charlie from the English soldiers after Culloden and kept him hidden until he could take a ship to France.  And, of course, take a few graveyard photos, cannot resist!

Next, on the agenda was the Fairy Glen.  No one really knows why the area is so named as there are no stories about fairies hanging about the place, however, it is a unique area and would be just the place for fairies to be if fairies there were.   The lush green landscape full of dramatic rock formations, cone-shaped hills, ponds, and waterfalls is certainly a whimsical place.  The only legend has to do with the labyrinth in the Glen, but it is a modern tale.  The labyrinth is said to have been created by tourists, who have also created a number of rock hoodoos in the area as well.  The locals have posted signs asking them to stop as moving the rocks around tends to created erosion in the soil.  At any rate, there is a story that if you follow the labyrinth correctly, you can call on the Fae and make a wish.  You're to pluck a piece of grass from the outside and enter the labyrinth following it to the center clockwise.  Once, there, place your grass down and make a wish.  Then put a hand behind your back and walk backwards, counter-clockwise out of the labyrinth.  Then, see how long it takes for the fairies to make your wish come true.  Unfortunately, on this day as we made our way through the Glen, we were dogged by a very loud family group that included a young woman with a very inflated sense of her importance. Loud exclamations while she posed and posed and posed for her husband/photographer(?) to snap endless photos.  In one of the photos below, you can see her wildly gesticulating in the white top while her husband/photographer snapped away. Or, maybe she is a wildly popular and famous pop star! Who knows... ^_^  We tried everything to get away from the shouting, but they just kept finding us, we began to feel like we were being stalked.  We didn't let it spoil the day, but were glad when we decided it was time for lunch.

With a short detour to take a look at a castle ruin next to the highway, we headed for Staffin Beach and then back to our "caravan" for the night.  Staffin Beach is one of the two places on Skye where fossils have been found.  The prints of a megalosaurus, along the lines of a T-Rex, but not quite as large, are visible at low tide, best seen after a winter storm.  We weren't able to find them, but did find a couple of souvenir rocks.  Beachcombing is always fun, even with a rather small beach to work with.

April 25 - From Skye to Moray, Scotland

Our route today took us along the northwestern coast through Portree, Plockton, Ledgowan, and Inverness to Culloden Moor.  We made several stops along the way as we both realized that we had failed to purchase any souvenirs from Skye!  We also took every opportunity for photography.  Highland coos, seascapes, landscapes, Duncraig Castle, an awesome castle by the sea repurposed into a bed & breakfast.

The Battle of Culloden is, of course, a focal point in the first book of the Outlander series by Diana Gabaldon and is mentioned throughout the subsequent books.  The Battle defines Scottish history in much the same way that the Civil War figures in the history of the United States.  The Pacification of the Highlanders ensued, and the actions of the army, led by Cumberland, are said to have been the worst atrocities in the history of the British Army. The wearing of highland dress, clanship, the bearing of arms, and speaking Gaelic were all outlawed in the Act of Proscription in 1746.

The Highlanders’ way of life, clan system and language changed forever. Clans, which have been seen a resurgence in recent years, have seen a growing membership in their ranks as more people like us search for their roots.  As a branch of the Macpherson Clan, it was so interesting to see where the changes began that led to immigration to America.  

I was surprised when I first saw the actual battlefield, having read many accounts of the battle, I had imagined it looking quite different.  In much the same way as the battlefields from the Civil War have changed in the intervening years, so the topography of Drummossie Moor has changed from the way it looked on April 16, 1746.  Many of the trees surrounding the moor have been cut down and many floods and storms have left their mark as well.  Our visit was just a few days past the 276th anniversary of the battle; wreaths and offerings were left at every marker. Scotland has not forgotten.

After several hours at Culloden, we headed east to our Airbnb for the night in Moray.

April 26 - From Moray to Blairgowrie

First stop today was Ballindalloch Castle, home of the lairds of Clan Grant from the 1540s until 1711 when title passed to Colonel William Grant whose daughter married into Clan Macpherson.  According to the Castle website, the current laird "...Guy Macpherson-Grant can trace his own ancestry back to this union of two of the foremost families of post-Reformation Scotland".  As my husband's family claims kinship through his maternal grandfather, Loran Wheeler McPherson, this was an important stop for us.  The other important stop today was to be the Clan Macpherson Museum for some tips on finding out more about the family members who opted to leave Scotland for Ireland and ultimately for the US.  Unfortunately the Museum is closed on Tuesdays...  Instead, we spent some time going through the Highland Folk Museum which features outdoor displays and buildings that have been relocated to show how people in the Highlands lived, worked, went to school, and spent their leisure time. I wish we could have spent more time there, but we still had a long drive through Cairngorms National Park to get to our Airbnb for the night in Blairgowrie. The Glenisla Hotel is tucked away far from crowds and main thoroghfares and I didn't want to be looking for it after dark.   As with other National Parks, there are very few places to pull over for photos, thus, I have only a few to share.  

April 27 - Glen Isla to Edinburgh

The day started off well enough, we woke up in plenty of time to make the drive to Edinburgh to make sure Tonya could make her flight to Dublin for her return to the US.  However, things started to go fairly quickly pear shaped!  First, neither of the navigation apps were working due to lack of internet.  We tried everything we could think of, rebooting the phone, restarting the car, restarting both at the same time!  Nothing!  I did have a pretty good idea which direction we needed to go; having spent quite a bit of time looking at a paper map, I knew we needed to go south and a bit east to get to Edinburgh.  However, I have also learned that sometimes, the fastest way starts in the opposite direction.  About the same time, I realized that I had neglected to fuel up the night before and we had only about 70 miles worth of fuel.  Between needing to arrive in Edinburgh by a specific time for Tonya to check in and get on board, and the lack of fuel, we didn't really want to spend any time going in the wrong direction.  So, off we went.  Fortunately, in one of the first villages we came to we found a couple of ladies out for an early morning walk.  They steered us to a "petrol station" where, thankfully, we were also able to get internet and thus the navigation apps came back online.  Then, it was just a race against the clock.  God was watching over us as we found and sped down one of the motorways (only exceeding the speed limit by a little bit!) to arrive at Edinburgh airport only 10 minutes later than our scheduled time.  Good thing we had allowed an extra hour for "whatever".  I kissed Tonya goodbye and she headed for Departures in good time for her flight (only a little stressed out) and I went to find some lunch and plan the rest of my day.  It was a little weird flying solo again, but I quickly adapted and started looking forward to car camping along the North Coast 500.  

First step was to stock up on supplies for the trip, sleeping bag, fuel for my backpacking stove, and something to keep milk and chees cold.  The shopping center I came to had a Tesco (UK grocery store chain) that included a restaurant so I gave it a try, glad I did, great lunch!  And, in the very same center, I found a Decathlon (UK version of Cabela's) and was able to pick up almost all that I needed.  I discovered that, unlike the US, where every store has a styrofoam ice chest for sale, in the UK about the best you can find is an Electric Coolbox.  Since I will be camping without benefit of electricity, my only choice was an insulated lunchbox and a couple of cold packs that I might or might not be able to freeze to keep foods cold.  Thus, I stocked up on fibre bars instead.

Then it was off to tour Edinburgh Castle, Castlelaw Hill Fort, and then on to my lodging in Penicuik for the next two nights to prepare for the NC500.

April 29 - Penicuik to Dumfries

Yesterday was spent in organizing and getting familiar with my new purchases and mapping out the route to begin the NC500.  Today was getting the plan into motion and stopping for some photography bucket list items as well.  First, back to Edinburgh to tour Holyrood Palace, not only for it's place in history, but also because a good portion of the Outlander books are set in and around the Palace.  From Edinburgh I drove south and east to arrive at Preston Mill, the real-life setting for a pivotal scene in the Outlander series.  Along the way, I happened upon a lake full of swans, right on the highway.  I found a parking place and spent a little time watching and photographing.  Swans are not common in the desert Southwest so this was a wonderful treat for me.  Back on the road to Preston Mill, location for shooting the Lallybroch mill scene in which Jamie is repairing the mill when the Redcoats come looking for Jacobites.  Our tour guide was very well versed in how the mill works and how millers lived in the early days.  He also shared a bit of insider information about shooting the scene for the Outlander series.  If you have watched the series you know that Jamie ends up running across the field from the mill 'au naturel'.  It seems that at least one tour guide recreated the scene, including the lack of clothing, for his tour group.  Not sure I need that much authenticity!  I enjoyed a very educational tour of the mill and the life of a miller as it is the only "working" mill left in Scotland.  I put "working" in quotes as it no longer actually grinds the oats but does actually still move as though it did.  Last, I headed for Dumfries and Galloway to my Airbnb for night and stopped along the way to see a portion of Hadrian's Wall at Harrow's Scar Milecastle.  Hadrian's Wall was begun in AD 122 during the reign of Roman Emperor Hadrian and bisects the island north and south.  Despite popular belief, it does not separate Scotland from England as most of it lies within England.  At any rate, it was one of my Mary Stewart Merlin stops.  While it doesn't play a huge role in any of the books, I was intrigued by an ancient wall built to keep out invaders.  I am thankful that the folks at English Heritage worked hard to preserve much of the wall so that it is available for future generations to see and wonder about.

April 30 - Dumfries and Galloway to Glasgow

Dumfries and Galloway is about 1 1/2 hours south of Glasgow and the birthplace of Robert Burns, poet and author of Auld Lang Syne and there is rumored to be a watermill there.  My Airbnb was a bit of a challenge to get to as there was road construction, much needed, as the potholes were terrible.  It was worth the climb however, as the room was awesome and such a lovely view.  A quick walk from the Devorgilla Bridge to the Robert Burns Centre along the River Nith was peaceful (it was early on a Saturday morning after all) and full of beauty. This is the watermill I heard tell of, it has been converted into an exhibition space to house a collection of Robert Burns artifacts, including a wonderful 3D landscape model of the area as it looked in Burns' time. I love the way a local group known as Incredible Edible Dumfries has turned so many bare spots into lush, productive, and edible sources of beauty along this stretch of the river.  It's a help yourself kind of ministry!!

My other goal for today was to find and photograph Loch Doon Castle.  A very interesting drive along a one lane, partially paved, rainy road past wide spots containing tents and other camp out gear.  Every spot seems to be filled to overflowing, I guess that getting out into nature isn't just an American thing.  At any rate, the further I drove, the harder it rained and I despaired of ever reaching my goal.  I just kept pushing on and was rewarded finally by reaching my goal.  Only to find that it was surrounded by a very high chain link fence and no opportunity whatever to get close enough for photos!  Even the Loch was shrouded in rain and clouds so I decided to file it under a great experience albeit, not the one I planned.

Glasgow is not the typical jumping off spot if you plan to do the NC 500 counterclockwise as I did, however, there were several places near Glasgow that I wanted to see.  And, since my plan was to take the train from Edinburgh to London at the end of the NC 500, this will be the best time to do it, particularly as the weather has not warmed up as I expected it would by this time.  Still pretty cold and rainy in the Highlands to be car camping.  Maybe if I spend a few more days before starting out, it will warm up a bit.