Received a text from United that it is time to check in for tomorrow's flight; check in at the Lufthansa website since I am flying Lufthansa from Athens to Frankfurt and then United from Frankfurt to Albuquerque with a layover in Denver. That took a little while and then I realized I will need to download the Lufthansa app in order to have e-boarding passes. A bit more complicated than my last European trip. Especially when the Lufthansa app suggests Travel ID for ease of use - which, of course, requires more information...and a confirmation link sent to my yahoo email. #SIGH# I finally gave up and went through the registration process again using my gmail account and zap, there was my confirmation. (Note: 1 hour later, I have yet to receive anything from yahoo)
When staying with family in Chios we were told that sometimes the toilet tank doesn't fill with water, just jiggle the top and it will be fine. Thanks to that info, when the same thing happened here in Athens, I knew how to fix it. Thank you, Vasos. ^_^
All but the last minute packing is complete, taxi ordered at 4:00 am tomorrow, dinner will be lunch leftovers and breakfast at the airport, prayers for travel mercies complete but continuing...
Only one goal for today. Get to the Areopagus for photos. This is spot where Paul addressed the people of Athens in 51 A.D. regarding the God he served. He had noticed many, many altars in Athens to many gods, including one "TO AN UNKNOWN GOD'. The full text of his speech is found in Acts 17:22-31. It is also found on a stone tablet enshrined within the rock of Mars Hill.
As I made my way via the Athens metro, I found myself in familiar territory. It appears that my current apartment is only a few blocks away from the one I stayed in with my daughter, sister and brother-in-law before we traveled to Chios. There I was again, walking past the Panhellenic Stadium on my way to Syntagma Square's metro station. This will most likely my last foray out as I need to spend tomorrow reorganizing and resting up for the journey home on Wednesday. This will be a good opportunity to upload some photos to go with the narratives for each day.
My kind of photo op today - get up early, get to the photo site, get my shots, get away before the tour groups and crowds show up. My goal this morning was the Areopagus, also known as Mars Hill. It was from this outcrop that in 51 A.D. Paul addressed the Athenians regarding the altar that he had found "TO AN UNKNOWN GOD".
" Men of Athens! I see that in every way you are very religious. For as I walked around and looked carefully at your objects of worship, I even found an altar with this inscription: TO AN UNKNOWN GOD. Now what you worship as something unknown I am going to proclaim to you. The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by hands. And he is not served by human hands, as if he needed anything, because he himself gives all men life and breath and everything else. From one man he made every nation of men, that they should inhabit the whole earth; and he determined the times set for them and the exact places where they should live." American Rhetoric - Online Speech Bank
The full text can be found in Acts 17:22-31. It is also enshrined in stone at the site.Even as early as I started, you can see the many, many people visiting the Areopagus and the Parthenon.
This is it! The last ferry ride back to Athens to retrieve the car, return it to the airport and take a taxi to my last Airbnb for this trip. I'll finish packing shortly and then mosey down to the port to await my ride... In the meantime, I'll start uploading a few photos to go with the narratives.
There was the usual hurry up and wait with the "usual in Greece" persons believing that their right to be in front of the line is much more important than your right to stand where you are. And, this was compounded by the fact that the ferry is 30 minutes late, sadly we are next to the last stop. I believe that these are, for the most part, not Greeks pushing to the front but are actually more likely to be French. At least that was the language/accent I heard most often. Although, there are rude Greeks as well.
For some unknown reason my FerryHopper App has made me "Check In Online" every time I try to pull up my e-ticket. And, naturally, it wasn't available when it was my turn to present my ticket. Thus the Purser had to look me up on the computer to get me onboard. Which, actually, worked out well as I was able to ask him where the BSN seating area was - Business Class, straight ahead, follow the signs! Ok! Wow! Business Class is going to be worth the extra $10 or so it cost. Couches, with tables and movable chairs, and waiter service. The hard part was finding a couch area that wasn't taken up by a college student passed out on it recuperating from their weekend in the islands. At any rate, I was able to keep all my baggage with me to expedite getting off the boat in Piraeus. Then, I have to walk up to the parking garage to get the car, return it to the airport and then get to my airbnb. At least, that was my plan. Then, my host asked if I could come early as she is out of town and her cleaning lady must stay late to greet me. Thus, I decided to drop off bags, pick keys and then go to the airport. I got about 15 text wishing that I could be there sooner as changes were difficult and I explained that I had no control over when the boat would get docked. Then the usual issues identifying the exact building I was supposed to go to as the way of recording addresses in Greece is very different from one region to another. At any rate, all was accomplished as soon as possible and I headed for the airport. Huge slowdown caused by an accident right after the exit for Rental Cars. Then I had trouble getting a taxi, then we encountered another accident on the toll road, and finally a motorcycle crashed right in front of us avoiding a flex bus! My driver hopped out along with several other drivers and pedestrians to make sure the rider was ok. Whew! Fortunately, I had enough cash to pay as the credit card machine had no battery.
Needless to say, I ate my leftover Greek Salad, had a couple of glasses of raki to go with and went to bed!
Decided to take the bus from Parikia to Naoussa to visit the Old Port and the Venetian Castle. Lots of fun to wander around after that, decided not to take the 2 hour hike to Paros Park after all so caught the 10:30ish bus (at 10:45) back to Parikia for some last minute shopping. Visited the Monastery of Panagia Ekatontapiliani which is just a few steps from my hotel. Took photos outside and then went around to the front and found that a family gathering of some sort was in progress so I did some wandering about, did a little more shopping, had dinner, and went inside the Panagia on my way back to my hotel. At dinner I overheard a conversation from a group of women sitting next to me that one needed to find a pharmacy to buy Band-Aids as her shoe was rubbing blisters. I turned to them and offered one of the Band-Aids I keep on hand ever since I was forced to walk a mile or so in search of a pharmacy on Grand Cayman once upon a time. A conversation ensued; one of the ladies had been a Greek exchange student and the family lived in Paros. It was a first time in Greece for all the others. Then, of course, I told my story about how long I had been here and why I travel alone. Sharing the strength God provides in such abundance for each trip is easy.
A good day.
Spent a while working on this blog and realized that the dates on some of my photos are off a bit. Sure enough, when I checked my camera, the date and time were incorrect. Yikes, no wonder I was confused about what I did on which day by looking at photos taken.
All packed up and ready to go - check-out time is 11:00 but my ferry doesn't arrive until nearly 4:00. I debated about where to do my waiting, here in Chora or near the Port. I opted for the Port as I have to get from Chora back to Folegandros Port on the bus and the bus timing was a bit too close for comfort. (A good choice as it turned out, had the ferry been on time, I would have missed it because the bus was late) I messaged my host to ask her where to leave the key but met her on the way out. I asked her make sure I had the correct gps path to get to the bus stop and her comment was, "Oh, you don't need gps, just walk that way (gesturing right) to the church then turn left up to the road and then right and in one meter the bus stop. You'll remember." And, I did actually sort of remember. However, dragging bags uphill on arrival in the heat made the distance seem much longer than .2 miles. I was at the bus stop in about 10 minutes.
So far my strategy is working out nicely. Caught the bus in Chora at 11:37, got to the port in ten minutes and found a restaurant with shade where I can hang out until my ferry comes. Apparently they are used to being the waiting spot as they even have a designated area for everyone to store their bags. Can't order lunch until 12:30 but it still leaves plenty of time to eat and relax before the ferry comes.
The ferry ride was uneventful, just very long and it was late getting in to Parikia so it was dark. Happily, my host's directions were great, I missed one turn but quickly saw my error and found my hotel with no problem. My concierge just thought I was maybe ignoring him when I walked right past him. ^_^
Today I got up early as I am making the climb to the Church of Panagia (Virgin Mary) up on the hill above Chora. It is only 1/2 a mile, but with 700' of elevation gain. I took my time, especially on the steeper parts with no rock barrier, that fear of falling again... I was passed by a gentleman who was running up the hill and a bit later as he ran back down. Hard to run uphill, but harder to maintain control running down. I'll walk, thanks. The church was locked so I was unable to view what I read was a beautiful interior, but the exterior is well cared for. I spent a peaceful hour or so just absorbing the quiet of this place. To say nothing of the views from the pathway.
Spent the rest of the day just wandering in Chora and finding fun things to photograph and topped off the day with a lovely dinner in one of the squares.
So when you have an assigned seat on the ferry, but none of the seats are marked and you are told to just take your bag with you, you just roll your bag next to an aisle seat and relax. Then they show a fashion video filmed with models with no eyes, or pinhole eyes, or red eyes like it is the zombie apocalypse or something. Very weird!!! And, the children's fashions portion seemed to be more about the pretty children than about the clothes they were "modeling", very uncomfortable. Glad I had a book to read, thank you Tonya!
My host has instructed me that I should take the bus from the port to Chora and she will meet me at the bus stop to walk me to the airbnb. However, the ferry was late getting in, but fortunately the bus was late getting there as well. I stayed in touch with my host and let her know when I was finally on the way. She walked me up to the room and explained how things worked and wished me well. All of my hosts have been very helpful, helping carry my bags, providing information about the area, etc. I wandered around the various squares of Chora and then had a Greek salad for dinner. As always, it was much too big so I took the rest home for lunch tomorrow.
I realized that my longer traveling trips are all going to be the ferry trips - my driving trips are only for an hour or so, most of my ferry rides are 4-5 hours. I need another book to read, I'm almost finished with my loaner.
Today is my sail boat tour. I guess I should always read all the way through the information instead of stopping with the parts that fit my criteria. Then I wouldn't be so surprised to see that everyone else on the tour is wearing a bathing suit. Lots of stops for swimming! Which I probably wouldn't have done in any case. I'm in it for the photo ops, not swimming. For this trip anyway. I met a family from near San Francisco, husband/wife, sister/husband, and Mom & Dad. We chatted about the differences in swimming in Greece and swimming near San Francisco, hot air balloons (I had to share what I do on weekends, after all) and then I met a couple who had actually met on a trip to Europe 25 years before. They both seemed to have the same itinerary as they just kept bumping into one another in various countries. Upon return to Sydney, where they are both from, they bumped into one another again. In a parking lot! They only lived a few blocks from one another. We agreed that God really, really intended for them to be together!! The last part of the voyage, I spent talking with a young couple that have only been married a few years and sharing with them what it is like to be married for almost 54.
I didn't get all the photos I would have liked, that would have required a lot more climbing up to get and that wasn't allowed on a boat trip. No matter, it was still time very well spent.
Today was an interesting day. I have had a lot of those in Greece. A couple of weeks ago as I looked at my schedule and remembered the issues getting on and off the ferries to Rhodes and Patmos, I made the decision to reorganize my bags and store the big one while on the island trip. I started looking or places to store it and discovered that there are several options for storing luggage while on a ferry trip. As I researched the options, I began to realize that storing the bag and then getting the car back to the airport and then getting me and the remaining bag back to the port was going to be a problem. Fortunately, that is when I checked my spreadsheet again and realized that I had already thought of that back in May when I was making final arrangements. I do not turn the car in until I get back from the island trip. So, all I have to do is put the bag in the car and store the car! I found a parking garage near the port and reserved a spot. Now, the ferry company changed my itinerary so I have to be at the port by 7:00, it is 1 ½ hours via the toll road from Kamari to the port. So, I am up at 4:00 out the door by 4:25 and away I go. Now, for the past week, I have had intermittent trouble with my gps maps, Apple and Google, not providing audio directions. Starts out fine and then just goes away and will not come back! Yep! Same problem this morning, I no sooner hit the toll road than my google map to the parking garage stopped talking. Not so bad on the toll road, but a bit tricky to say the least when driving around the HUGE port of Piraeus. Suffice to say, I ended up on several one way roads, mostly going the right way, and made several circuits before finally making it to the parking garage. Driving a stick with a phone in one hand is not easy! At one point, I actually considered just going to the airport and calling off the rest of the trip. And, then I got a nudge and thought I would give it one more try. Lo and behold, there was the parking garage I was looking for and in plenty of time to walk down to the port for my ferry. I can only say that my personal guardian angel is getting quite a workout on this trip.
Now for the fun part. My host on Milos has a 3:00 pm check in and the ferry arrived at 11:30. So, I had lunch and then sat on a park bench reading in the shade until time to start the walk up to the room. According to the gps, it is only a 10-minute walk. Except!!! Most of that walk is on stairs, not on a road where I can make use of the roller bag. I took my time, stopping to rest frequently, in shade when possible, and it only took me an hour to get here. For once, my gps was accurate (that has also been an issue for the last few airbnbs, not sure what the issue is). I was 2 minutes away from the room when I bumped into a young man that told me, yes I was going the right direction, and actually there was an easier way to get here from the port - - without stairs. I've since decided to use the Drive option instead of the Walk option to avoid stairs being in the mix. So far, that has worked out pretty well.
Last day here and I need to get re-organized for the island tour. There is no way I can manage 2 pieces of luggage, plus carryon for so many ferry trips so I am putting minimal clothing and supplies into my camera bag and stowing unnecessary camera gear in my big suitcase that will stay in the car in the parking garage in Pireaus while I go island hopping. I also received a message reminding me that my Cosmote Greek phone/internet will expire so I went online to extend that as well. Did finally get a decent sunrise shot, those have been few and far between this trip. When you have a Greek phone that displays messages in Greek but doesn't translate them, you have to take a photo with your US phone and then translate it with Google Translate on your Greek phone. Sheesh!!
Today I am driving once more back toward Corinth, this time to visit Ancient Corinth itself and the Museum attached to it. Unlike the Acrocorinth, this won't involve a lot of climbing. It will, however, bring St. Paul very much to mind as this is one of the places he spent a lot of time.
My trip to Greece was partly about family and partly about being a photographer in a beautiful country and partly about following in the footsteps of St. Paul. I wanted to visit some of the places where Paul did his most amazing work for the Kingdom. While the ambiance can be spoiled somewhat by the hundreds of other tourists visiting the sites, I also found that, by arriving early, I could envision what it must have been like when Paul was here. Particularly here in Ancient Corinth where the North West Shops would have been where Paul worked as a tent maker alongside Priscilla and Aquila and where he spoke to the citizens of Corinth in the marketplace and also where he was brought before the Roman leaders to answer the charges of the church leaders. The Romans found it be a Jewish religion issue and let Paul go. As I sat here quietly I could envision the bustle there would have been in Paul's day; people going about the business of buying food, trading olives and olive oil for clothes and blankets, basket weavers, goat herders, donkeys carrying all manner of goods. And talk!! Oh, my goodness, how the Greeks can talk! A mile a minute and more loudly as the passion grows! Was Paul quiet or did he speak loudly and with passion? I'm guessing the latter.
Got to the airport with time to spare, even though we found out that the stoplights don't work this early in the morning. The gps said to turn left at the next light, but there was no light. And then I realized there was a light, it just wasn't lit. Makes it really hard to see.
Then it was time for me to head for Kamari. I found it to be very weird driving in a foreign country in the dark. I spent some time wondering what the heck I was doing here, driving in the dark by myself. And, I laughed a bit at how well the Greeks have managed this tollway; even as I was irritated by the amount of money spent so far on this trip just paying tolls. Similar to the UK, they have created several rest stops that include gas, restaurants, and toilets. However, they are all closed at night. So much for getting a cup of coffee... The other thing they have is toilets in a pull-out space right on the highway. Well lit, open all the time, and very odd to use with traffic going by so close.
My not so handy gps got me close, but it was way too early to check in so I decided to drive to the Acrocorinth - or the acropolis of ancient Corinth. This fortification dates back to archaic times and was occupied until the early nineteenth century. A defensible position 1,800 feet above the plain, it was fortified by the Byzantine Empire, and then the Franks after the Fourth Crusade, then the Venetians and the Ottoman Turks in their turn.
Before returning to Kamari, I wanted to re-visit that submersible bridge, this time to watch it in action. So cool to watch. It was already submerged when I arrived so I just watched as the boat traffic came through going west to east and noticed that the traffic on the east side was lined up in order of arrival to move west in their turn. And, then, I got the see the bridge as it rose up from the depths and traffic began to cross. The concept of a canal began in the 7th Century BC and has been embraced by several key people between then and modern times. The canal joins the Gulf of Corinth in the Ionian Sea and the Saronic Gulf in the Aegean Sea, but because of its placement in a seismically active area, it has experienced many closures throughout its history. Most were due to landslides caused by seismic activity, but some were due to actions during the many conflicts in Greece's past, not only the war of independence, but also WWII. In April of 1941, during the Battle of Greece between Allied forces and the invading forces of Nazi Germany several bombs were detonated, doing damage to the infrastructure.
"Three years later, as German forces retreated from Greece, the canal was put out of action by German "scorched earth" operations. German forces used explosives to trigger landslides to block the canal, destroyed the bridges and dumped locomotives, bridge wreckage and other infrastructure into the canal to hinder repairs. The United States Army Corps of Engineers began to clear the canal in November 1947 and reopened it for shallow-draft traffic by 7 July 1948, and for all traffic by that September. " (1) Robert P. Grathwol; Donita M. Moorhus (2010). Bricks, Sand, and Marble: U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Construction in the Mediterranean and Middle East, 1947–1991 (PDF). Government Printing Office. p. 13. ISBN 978-0-16-081738-0.
When I finally made it back to my Airbnb to meet my host, we chatted a bit about where I was from. I told her New Mexico and she said, "Ah, once I went to Albuquerque." When I explained that I lived in Albuquerque, I expected excitement about the Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta. Nope. She went to Albuquerque to see the Breaking Bad house.
Since this drive is about getting near the Athens Airport to make a 4:00 am timeline tomorrow I decided to not take the toll road, but use the old highway systems instead in order to see some of the countryside we missed by using the toll road from Athens to Kalamata. Which resulted in a few missed turns, including one where I made a "sharp right" only to find the Greek equivalent of an 18-wheeler blocking the entire one-lane road. No option to back up so I moved right and went forward - very slowly and carefully! Definitely got to take the scenic tour, including several miscues because of traffic and roads hidden until right on top of them going through the center of towns. One of the highlights was crossing he Corinth Canal on the Isthmia submersible bridge. We made a left turn as directed by our gps only to find a number of cars sort of just sitting in various positions and no one going anywhere. As we looked around, we saw a sign indicating that the crossing was at a particular time and opening at a particular time and that opening time was about 10 minutes away. So we got into the queue and waited. We didn't have long to wait before we saw a couple of sailboats going through the canal in front of us. Finally, we watched in awe as the bridge rose up out of the water until it reached street level whereupon the guard rails went up and we all started across. Except that two of the cars just in front of us did not move. Seems the drivers had gotten out to watch the boats. We had to wait for them to return to their vehicles before we could proceed.
Once again, it took us three tries of putting in the address provided by our host before the gps system got us to the correct place. Still time enough to re-organize for the trip home and get to bed early for a 3:30 departure to the airport.
NOTE: Since I am no longer sure of the dates on my photos, due to various time/date issues, I don't want to miss posting photos of Mycenae, since it was one of the high points of our trip to the Peloponnese. At the Museum, the showcase piece is the Mask of Agamemnon. Of course, this is a copy, the real one is housed in the National Archaeological Museum of Athens. And, it is reported that it probably is not Agamemnon's as it has been dated as being from 1550-1500 BC and Agamemnon would have lived 300-400 hundred years later, if he did exist. Homer appears to be the main source of information and contributor to the legend.
Today was a little bit of a work day for me so we got a late start. Tonya needed to get some shopping done before returning home so we drove to a spot near the port. Some of the Greek signage is interesting, albeit sometimes hard to interpret. As with most shopping areas, narrow streets that include restaurants with a few tables and lots of smaller shops. We spent the afternoon and a lot of Euros.
The Fortress of Palamidi is just to the east of the city of Nafplion. It was built in the second period of Venetian rule but was conquered by the Turks and then came into the possession of the Greeks during the 1822 War of Independence.
At Epidaurus, on the other hand, some archeological excavations appears to date back to the 15th Century BC. The most amazing site is the Ancient Theatre. We climbed all the way to the top to experience the amazing acoustics, only to watch as first one person and then another to "take the podium" in the exact center of the stage area, only to take photos. We listened as several tour group leaders gathered their attendees together in the center to clap as they backed away to the first row of seats. Finally a woman took courage and began singing Alleluia. After only a few bars, we heard a loud whistle and a guard yelling, "No singing!". What the heck!? Sure enough, later research showed that the authorities have decided that singing or making short speeches is disrespectful. Hard to understand how using an amazing acoustic marvel for its intended use is disrespectful.
Besides the Ancient Theatre there is a small but very nice museum and also the remains of the athletic stadium (also off limits) and the healing center that was the original draw for people wishing to be healed by Asclepios.
We headed next to Kalamaki Beach for some relax time, still a bit rocky for my taste but I found a nice bench in the shade to read.
Monemvasia and Mystras are on the agenda for today on our way to Mili. The ruins and Monastery were awesome and reading up on the work of this particular monastery was very interesting. It was one of several established by the early Christian church. Emperor Theodosios I actually passed legislation banning monasteries from cities as it was thought that the noise and temptations should not be imposed upon the monks. The Brontochion Monastery was one of the wealthiest and most powerful of the Mystras monasteries and played a significant role in the intellectual life of the ruler. It is thought to have included a large workshop where the monks copied manuscripts by hand.
After a quick lunch, it was time to make our way to Mili, and that's when the trouble began. Our apartment overlooks the ocean and yet our directions kept moving us toward the mountainous area more inland. Sure enough, just about the time we passed by a couple of goat herders and their flock of 30 or so goats, our gps announced "Arrived!" Well, not so much. So we contacted our host and she tried to send additional directions; however she kept mentioning that the "stigma" she send was correct and we kept telling her that we were in the mountains. We kept trying various phones, gps systems (Apple vs Google) and finally just plugged in Mili, so we could at least get out of the mountains. Obviously, we ultimately ended up in the right place, but there was a lot of messaging and then a personal meeting to do so. Yes, driving from Point A to Point B when it is not the Parthenon can be challenging!
Vatheia Village is billed as a mostly ghost village of the Mani Peninsula in the Southern Peloponnese. Although not truly a ghost town as there are still a few full-time residents, most of the buildings have been abandoned. Because it is easy to get to, in a beautiful location, and is quite extensive, it has become a popular tourist site. It dates back to the 1th century and was originally constructed as a stronghold, probably against pirates, who actually brought most of the wealth to the village in the end, according to some reports.
We stopped at a couple of places along the road between Kalamata and Githio. Getting around to non-tourist areas in Greece is always interesting. In this case we were given instructions from our host who said to turn right on this road and we would see a church, keep going until we got to another church and then look for his brother who would be waiting for us. And, there he was, not only waiting but also saving us a place to park! No mean feat! We parked and he helped us up a couple of flights of outdoor stairs to our apartment which overlooks the ocean.
We quickly settle in and decided to walk across the causeway to the islet where we could see a lighthouse. We passed a lovely church and would have liked to go in, but it appeared they were preparing for a wedding or something. Sadly, the lighthouse was on Naval property and the sign said No Admittance. As we walked back we saw that the cars at the church had increased and there were also two cars on the one-lane causeway facing each other, inches apart. Both cars were occupied, but no one was out and neither moved. We waited for several minutes to see how they would solve the dilemma, but nothing happened. Finally, a third car pulled up, whereupon everyone got out and a shouting match ensued. We waited until they worked it out and all the cars were gone before we walked back to the apartment. We watched as car after car arrived with guests and wondered how they could possible cram more cars into the space we had seen. Then we heard car horns honking from at least a mile away as a procession carrying first the groom and then the bride made their way across to the church. The ceremony was held outside as the church was much too small for the entire group. And then, everyone left. Apparently the reception/party was held elsewhere. Not sure if it was a typical Greek wedding, but it was fun to see the goings on.
The Castle of Methoni is on the SE Messinia, the first leg of the Peloponnese peninsula and overlooks the Ionian Sea. It was built by the Venetians in the early 13th century on a rocky promontory. Sadly, the only way to get out to the Bourtzi is by way of a plank bridge with no guardrails, so I opted to stay back and let my daughter explore it on her own.
We were intrigued by signs indicating a waterfall so we took a side trip to investigate. It was quite a hike and I suspect there were even better falls a bit further on, but we decided that we needed to get back on the road for our next stop at Voidakili Beach - we had heard it was most beautiful! After a bit of swimming, we decided that it must be more beautiful from above as it seemed a bit drab from ground level. However, at 2:00 in the afternoon on a very hot day, climbing up to the Old Navarino Fortress was just not in the cards.
I can't help but feel that we were both feeling a bit tired and sad at this point. Tired due to the fast pace of our travels, although we knew ahead of time that were packing a lot into our itinerary, and sad because in many ways our travels weren't quite what we expected. Our experience in Ireland and Scotland contained a lot of visits to beautiful places as well; the difference is in the travel between where we were and where we wanted to go. For whatever reason, in Greece, the gps directions didn't always get us to the correct place. This added to the tension of driving in a country where you can't read any of the signs. It isn't like you can call AAA because you are lost!
Tonya and I flew back to Athens today, picked up a rental car, and headed to Kalamata, where we are staying for the next few days. Before arriving, we have an olive grove tour ahead of us. This particular forest is around 3,000 trees and has been in the same family for three generations. They contract most of the Extra Virgin Olive Oil produced by their trees and we were told that most of it goes to Italy. The tour was quite interesting as we learned that they have followed a practice of letting the weather decide their crop, which means they propagate the trees in a more natural way rather than planting trees in rows and they do no irrigate. Thus, when the rains are light they have a smaller crop to sell, but the trees are healthier as a result of this practice. I asked about the glass jar in the trees and he told us that their equivalent of a department of agriculture was doing a fly study. Each week, they come and count the flies to let them track the numbers and see if they are increasing or decreasing.
Today a road trip! And, again, with two cars because there are so many of us! Finding a spot to park one car is bad enough. ^_^ We drove to southern Chios to visit the "Painted Village" of Pyrgi, the Mastic Museum, and the Mavra Volia Black Sand beach. It is thought that Pyrgi dates back to medieval times and retains that style of architecture. The residents have decorated the exterior of the buildings with black and white motifs, mostly in geometric shapes. It is one of the biggest villages in Chios and is the seat of the Mastic Villages.
From Discover Chios - "The church of Panagia Krina, at Vavili village, was built around the end of the 12th century. The church was built by Efstathios Kodratos and his wife Eirini Doukaina Pepagomeni who were members of the court in Constantinople." The Church of the Holy Apostles is found in Pyrgi. It is very small, but has some beautiful painted walls said to date back to the 13th century. Portions of the church were destroyed in the earthquake of 1881 and only some portions have been restored. As you can see, the cats of Greece make themselves at home no matter where they are.
Mastic is a resin harvested from the mastic tree, a broad-leafed evergreen that grows natively only in Chios. It has a long history of use in medicines, food, cosmetics, and alcohol. It is known as tears of Chios or mastichochoria. It is harvested much like maple syrup - by wounding the tree and catching the resin as it drips out. Unlike syrup, it falls as tear drop shaped pieces and is harvested from the ground. The soil around the tree is cleaned and a layer of white limestone powder is spread to catch the drops. This process has not changed much from the historical traditions. It is still mostly done by hand. Once the drops are gathered the cleaning process begins. The Mastic Museum is an excellent place to learn about the many traditions and work of harvesting, cleaning, and using mastic.
The black sand beach turned out to be a black rock beach. In Greece, it is called a pebble beach, but I don't think fist-sized rocks count as pebbles. I made one abortive attempt and gave it up as a bad idea and put my shoes back on. Water socks definitely required for this beach! Maybe I just spent too much time on Hawaiian beaches... Everyone else enjoyed the water, I spent my time taking photographs.
Last night Chios experienced a storm of Biblical proportions! We heard that there was even a small tornado - at least it was a strong enough storm to rate a name, Athena. Fortunately, thanks to that 100+ year old stone house we were fine. It was very, very noisy, lots of rain, lots of lightening, lots of thunder so no one slept much. Thus, today was spent mostly dealing with the aftermath. The biggest problem was the water and power. All of Greece is very hilly and Chios is no exception. The rain came so hard and so quickly that a car parked uphill from us was washed into an arroyo and as the brush and debris piled up behind it, the water was diverted and it inundated the property, including that 100+ year-old well that provides water to the house. There were also two lightening strikes that hit near enough to the house power lines to affect the electric lines, fried the router and the washing machine. The water also flowed through the 200+ year old church on the property as it is lower down the slope. Thus, we were dropped off to spend some time visiting the Castle of Chios and the downtown square while our hosts dealt with the house issues. They wouldn't let us help, so we just got out of the way. ^_^
Our day began with the most beautiful sunrise from our bedroom window. In this 100+ year-old family home, much updating and construction was done to accommodate multiple family units living here. The "apartment" allotted to my daughter and me was located on the southernmost end of the building, with a separate entrance and our own kitchen (not currently operable), sitting room, and upstairs a bedroom and bathroom. Thus we were able to open windows on three sides of the house to get cross breezes, thank goodness. It is still quite warm and there is no a/c. After a breakfast that included many family stories, about the Massacres of Chios during the Greek War of Independence. Because Chios is just off the coast of Turkey, the Ottomans were able to overwhelm Chios and proceeded to hang, butcher, starve and torture around 20,000 islanders, including ancestors. Thousands more were raped, deported, and enslaved. History seemed to repeat itself when the German soldiers invaded Chios during World War II. Again, family members were put to death along with other villagers. There were also many stories of when our host and my brother-in-law were children. Especially sweet was a story about a baseball glove that was borrowed 30 years ago and was returned today.
Then it was time for a tour of the grounds - they grow olives, figs, pomegranates, lemons, clementines, and a variety of kitchen herbs for their own use. The irrigation as well as the house water is provided by a well dug on the property by ancestors and kept in working order for more than 100 years. There is also a 200+ year-old church on the grounds and used occasionally for services and for weddings.
After a short rest we headed out for the Windmills of Chios and then dinner in the Castle of Chios and the Turkish Baths. In the square containing the largest restaurant, the north side contains a cemetery - the presence of tombstones did not seem to bother any of the diners, but we opted for a place alongside the sea. The Baths were already closed for the day when we arrived, but the evening light was perfect outdoor photos.
Today we traveled from Athens to Chios. Our trip was complicated by a taxi strike, which meant that we would need to use the bus and metro to get to the airport for our flight. Fortunately, we were able to prepare ahead of time and purchase our tickets yesterday. Then it was just a matter to walking the few blocks from the apartment to the bus stop and then from the bus stop to the metro station with all our baggage. I have 2 bags plus a carry-on bag - at every stop I could picture the bus or metro taking off with me and only 1 of my bags instead of both of the. A lot of other folks got the same memo about the strike so there were many, many travelers on the bus and on the metro. We separated at the airport as we had different seating and re-connected when we reached Chios. It took 2 cars to get us from the airport to the family home so we met Vasos and Ritsa right away. He walked up to me and announced, "I am the cousin!" So much fun to see the love of family!
We had purchased tickets for the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum for today so we set off early, once again using the Metro from the Airbnb. The Metro can be a bit confusing as all the signage is in Greek. Thus, if you don't read Greek and don't have an app like Google Translate, it can be difficult to determine which direction the Metro is going - to your destination or from it.
Our timing could not have been better. Just as we arrived at Syntagma Square the formal changing of the guard was taking place. This happens every Sunday morning at 11:00. It is a parade into the square and much more pomp and ceremony.
We were still able to make the Metro to get to the Acropolis and then it was finding the right line to take to make use of our Skip The Line tickets. ^_^ Sundays are busy at the Acropolis. There were a lot of people, a lot of sunshine, and a lot of steps to climb, but we made it to the top. The view is unbelievable, photos don't do it justice. Athens is a huge city and most of it is visible from the Acropolis. The Parthenon is only part of the draw, albeit the largest! There is also the Theatre of Dionysus, the Arch of Hadrian, the Temple of Olympian Zeus, the Odeon of Herodes Atticus, Mars Hill (Areopagus), and the Erechtheion, whose roof is supported by the famous Karyatids. Five of the original Karyatids are now housed at the Acropolis Museum for protection from the environment, the sixth remains in the British Museum in England where it was taken by Lord Elgin in 1801. The Greek government has requested that she be returned to Greece, so far unsuccessfully. Meanwhile there is a blank space in the Museum where her sisters await her return.
Awaiting the arrival of my daughter from Albuquerque. Shortly after her arrival, she discovered that her phone had been left in the taxi she took from the airport. The driver did not give her a receipt so we tried several taxi companies to see if we could locate him. Finally I had the idea to use Find My Friends on my phone to find her phone. At first it did not answer, but I just kept redialing until a gentleman answered. Fortunately, he spoke a bit of English and I explained to him that the phone he had answered belonged to my daughter. This was a difficult conversation since he had very little English and I have no Greek, so I handed my phone to my brother-in-love who does speak Greek! After a long time of trying to figure out how to find him and retrieve the phone, we took a taxi to a park near his home to accomplish the hand-off. At first he refused, but finally, reluctantly, he accepted a very small reward. Proof that there are many, many good people in this world. And, thanks be to God, that one of them was the one to find the phone.
We decided to just have the taxi drop us off at Syntagma Square where we could see the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and proceed to the Plaka for shopping. We arrived just as a wedding party was working it's way through the streets to one of the churches in the neighborhood. Along their path stood a couple of men holding trays of (we assume based upon the shape and size of the glasses) ouzo, presumably for courage for the bride and groom. Or, maybe just to help the festivities commence!
Once again we stopped at Syntagma Square to watch the changing of the Evzone Guard at night. So, so cool!
We started off for Syntagma Square to watch the changing of the guard and then wander a bit, ending up in the Plaka for shopping. We discovered that Friday is market day in our area of Athens, and the entire 12-block street was blocked off for the vendors - eggs, leeks, potatoes, beets, zucchini, fresh fish, meats, cantaloupe, watermelon, figs, strawberries, apples, oranges, olives of all varieties, along with clothes and shoes and towels! After a bit of shopping, we resumed our travel. Travel at this point is walking to a metro stop from the Airbnb and catching the Metro to Syntagma Square. We missed the changing of the guard at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier by a few minutes so opted to proceed and catch the changing on the way back.
Kaisariani΄s Shooting Range , Altar of Freedom. This memorial is for the 200 Greek militants were executed on May 1, 1944, during the German occupation. The site was not open when we arrived, but there was an aura of reverence.
There are many, many beautiful churches in Greece, but sadly so many of them are locked.
The Plaka is The place to go for shopping and dining in Athens. Lots of shops, lots of tavernas and restaurants.
We were able to see the changing of the guard at night, and it was so beautiful! The crowd was gone and there was quiet, just the call to orders of the guards and the swooshing of the nails on the bottom of their shoes. The lighting made for some memorable photos for the Tomb and the Panhellenic Stadium as well.
No issues getting to the airport in Rhodes since it is early morning. And, finding a taxi in Athens was easy, but dropping me off at the apartment was difficult due to the traffic and only one lane open. For the first time in my travels, the driver would not accept a credit card, fortunately, I had enough US cash and Euros to cover it, but I let my daughter know to be sure and check before she gets in as it is about $55. Since it was still early in the day, we walked to the Panhellenic Stadium and Museum. It was here in 1896 that the revival of the modern Olympic Games occurred. We walked around the entire stadium but did not go to the top! The museum has posters representing the various years of the Olympic games, very interesting to see them all in one space. Lots of memorabilia to see.
Since I only have 1 day on Rhodes, I combined my sights to ones in Lindos because I am told it is about an hour by bus from Koskinou, which should give me plenty of time for sightseeing. And, if I leave early, it means I'll be walking in the morning at least while it is still fairly cool. So, I set out for the bus stop, except that the only bus that stopped there only stopped to tell me that there is no longer a bus from Koskinou to Lindos, but he offered to take me up to where I could catch the bus to Lindos and the next one comes at 9:15 which we can make. He dropped me off, pointed out the stop and I had 10 minutes to cross a busy street and walk 20 yards to the bust stop. Except the 9:15 bus didn't stop, he just kept on going. Another couple waiting for the 9:15 bus were just as perplexed. Maybe full? Well, the next bus is at 10:15 but it is really hot right here and no shade at all. To make matters worse, there is an empty garbage bin just up breeze and the reek is terrible!!! Oh well, I can do this. The minutes crawl by. It gets hotter. 10:45. 11:00. 11:05, 11:10, 11:15, 11:20. No bus. 11:30 no bus. The next one isn't scheduled until 11:45!! Is that a store I see about 100 yards away, maybe I can do some shopping where it is cool instead of standing out here where it is hot and smelly! Sadly, when I get there, it appears to be a combination Toy R Us, Babies R Us so not much to offer. But, hey, I used up 20 minutes... No one else has come, does that mean this bus stop isn't used anymore either? But, that other couple was expecting a bus and I see busses coming from the other direction, back from Lindos. Finally, about 11:30 another lady comes to the bus stop. I tell her my sad story and she assures that the 11:45 bus will come, she takes it every day to work. She is Russian so we talk about the weather in our individual countries and Greece how they are the same and how they are different. When I asked her why she lived in Greece, she said "Easy, marriage."
Once finally on the bus to Lindos, I realized that it would be almost 1:00 before I got there which would drastically reduce the time I had for sightseeing. I need to get back to Koskinou before dark or I will never find my apartment. I tried two separate "trails" that appeared to lead to the Acropolis of Rhodes as I knew it offered awesome views but neither led me where I needed to go. At last, I was just too hot and tired from climbing stairways that I gave up, had a wonderful gyros from Andidas and headed back to the bus stop. I had taken photos of St. Paul's Bay on the way down. The very nice ticket lady explained which bus I needed to get on and said it would be there at 3:30. When I got off the bus I had to use my phone gps to guide me back to my apartment. With a couple of wrong turns and a short period where the phone didn't seem to know where I was, I finally made it back in time to get organized for my 6:15 pick-up time for the airport in the morning. Boma kept her word and was early, but I was ready. Due to a slight issue getting the keys back into the lockbox, I ended up leaving my 50th Anniversary Balloon Fiesta del Sol travel cup on the sidewalk by the apartment. Hopefully, someone will enjoy using it as much as I did.
This is a long travel day - the ferry has 5 stops to make before ending at Rhodes. Fortunately I was able to arrange for a taxi to pick me up at the port and take me to Koskinou and then from Koskinou to the airport on Thursday. I spent the time on the ferry contemplating how I was going to manage my luggage on the island tour I'm taking after the Peloponnese. It is difficult, to say the least, to get around with a large suitcase and a small, but very heavy, one in addition to my hand luggage. I asked Manuela, my hostess, if she knew of any options that might be available in Athens but she was didn't know of any and was pretty doubtful about my luck finding a solution. Since I had the Rick Steves book with me I looked to see what he had to say. Yes, there are actually several baggage storage options near Piraeus port. I'm not the only one to arrive with too much luggage.
The ferry was late getting to Rhodes, but wasn't worried since I would have a taxi waiting. Except I didn't. I searched the crowd for someone holding up my name - - nothing! Traffic was almost at a standstill so I thought perhaps my ride just hadn't arrived yet. After about 15 minutes and still no one, I tried to reach my host who had arranged the taxi for me. I found a message from her that my taxi was running late but would be there. So, I relaxed and just watched the chaos as all those passengers, and taxis, and family members all tried to get out of the port in very heavy traffic. My driver was soooo apologetic when she arrived that I just told her not to worry, I enjoyed the time people-watching because I knew she would get here eventually - gesturing at the crawling traffic. We laughed and joked all the way to Koskinou, she even stopped at a grocery store so I could use the bathroom - little did I know I should have done some shopping as well. By the time we arrived in Koskinou it was fully dark and no stores were open. So I had a breakfast of dried apricots and almonds. Boma promised she would arrive on time to pick me up for the airport on Thursday - late pick-up to go to apartment, not a problem. Late pick-up to go to airport, big problem. ^_^
My trip has been about visiting Biblical places as well as family and beautiful landscapes. Patmos was added to my trip even though it took 11 hours riding on a ferry to make it work, 5 from Rhodes to Patmos and 6 to go back to Rhodes, as there is no airport on Patmos. This could be part of the reason that Patmos has remained somewhat out of the main tourist negatives - overuse, overpriced, and over crowded. Seeing where the Apostle John wrote (actually dictated) the book of Revelation that I study was not something I was going to miss. The hike up to the Cave and Monastery is around 2.5 miles with around 700 feet of elevation gain, so I started early while it was still relatively cool. I took my time, admiring the surrounding area as I went. I could hear the roosters crowing, the tingle of the goat bells, and their calls to one another. The foliage was so dense that I never did see the goats. The Cave was not yet open so I just sat and enjoyed the quite and tried to imaging the view that John would have had from this same spot. Once inside the cave I found benches and chairs, an alcove for the Greek Orthodox priest and various icons. The spot where John is said to have laid his head and the niche where he placed his hand in order to rise each morning are marked and preserved. Photos are not allowed at this time, but you can find photos online. I just wanted to sit and contemplate what imprisonment in this spot would have been like. Shortly after I sat down on the front row of benches, the priest came in and began a service. Not wanting to be disruptive, I simply sat. I felt a touch on my shoulder and turned to see a woman gesturing for me to remove my hat, which I did. As I awaited a proper time to depart, I thought about how those around me were moved by the words of the priest and I could not be because I didn't understand the language.
The Monastery of St. John the Theologian includes a museum that should not be missed. Again, no photography is allowed but they have accumulated a staggering amount of ancient writing, textiles, art objects and even furniture. I was moved and amazed to see an original copy of the Book of Job in the Greek. As an inveterate reader, I value all books highly and this one just took my breath away. Perhaps it has to do with having watched in episode of The Chosen recently where Matthew is shown bringing his manuscript to Mary for safekeeping. This Book of Job must have had a similar history - one man writing down daily the things that were important to remember and finally handing that treasure on to another so that it could be handed down from one person to another and ultimately down to me.
The windmills of Patmos fell into disrepair in the 1950s when electricity arrived. They have now been fully restored and one is still operations, grinding organic flour for local bread makers. The process is open to the public, although on this holiday weekend there was no one around. Unlike most of the island windmills, the ones on Patmos are not whitewashed and retain the warm earth tones of the stone with which they are built. Two of them were built in the 1500s and the third in the 1800s. The view from the windmills is incredible.
I decided that, even though Manuela had advised against visiting Chora today because of all the extra people here for the holiday, I decided there wasn't any reason I couldn't take the bus to Grinkos to photograph the bay. As the bus began to climb the hill out of Skala I noticed orange cones in the middle of the road and wondered about them. The bus actually took one out making a turn. As we got closer to the Monastery of St. John the Theologian, I began seeing runners. And then I remembered the other reason for not taking the bus today - there is a road race 5k and 10k, and she wasn't sure if the bus would even be running. The bus offloaded passengers just below the Monastery and began the turn-around process (a bit harrowing to say the least, given that a good portion of the bus was hanging over the edge of a very steep drop). As we got straightened out, along came a policeman on a motorbike. What then ensued was a rather lengthy, somewhat vociferous "conversation" between the policeman, who said the bus couldn't go any further, and the bus driver, who said it absolutely was going further! All of this was, of course, in Greek. However, there was no doubt in my mind what the conversation was about. Price for the bus ride 2 €, getting to watch the bus driver prevail, priceless!
The beach was lovely and fairly quiet for a holiday weekend. I spent a bit of time wandering and ate my lunch before returning to the bus stop for the ride back to Skala. I expected that the race would be over, and I think it was, but there were still a lot of cones to dodge on the way back. As I walked from the bus stop back to my apartment, I passed a group of runners, doing what runners, and hot air balloon pilots, and probably other pilots as well. Spending time talking to one another and telling about their portion of the larger event. I noticed a couple of trophies among the group, so maybe they were bragging about their winning! Or just poking fun at one another, as everyone was laughing.
After a difficult drag getting luggage down to the port, finally it was time to get on board. I know now, not to be the first one on board because your suitcases end up at the bottom of the pile. I will keep that in mind for my next ferry trips. This one has 5 stops before we get to Patmos and about stop 2 I suddenly realized that I had left some clothes hanging in the closet in Thessaloniki. And, of course, there is no internet on the ferry (or at least I didn't know how to connect to it) so I had to wait until we were in port to message my host and let him know and ask for him to mail them to me. He has guests until Monday, but will be happy to send to me. Now, I just need to find out our address on Chios and best guess about mailing by Monday to reach Chios before the 13th. The 9-hour time difference is problematic, as is my Greek phone not really managing US texts well. And, email is just difficult. At any rate, I've done all I can at this point, what happens next is somebody else's job. ^_^
I do love Patmos!! I was met at the Port and escorted to my Airbnb. We decided to walk as it isn't that far, although, again, even rolling bags are difficult with uneven sidewalks. And, it is hot, and very humid. The hot isn't so bad as it is not as hot as home, but the humidity makes it feel hotter. That said, I dumped my bags, grabbed some water and went back out. First to find the ocean, my Airbnb is located on a very narrow strip of land between two larger masses. My ferry docked on the eastern side of the island and my Airbnb is a short walk from the western side. Thus I get two views of the Aegean Sea. And, I feel perfectly safe walking here, confirmed by my escort who has lived here for some time. I asked her about getting to the Cave of the Apocalypse and she said that tours would cost 250 €, but that I should take the bus instead. It is very safe and not nearly as expensive. However, she recommended not going on Sunday, but waiting until Monday as it is a holiday weekend.
So, I walked to the grocery store, had some dinner, walked down to the western coast and waited for sunset.
Drove my rental car back to the airport - circled the airport twice before I got out and asked where I was supposed to turn in my car... I arrived 2 hours ahead of my flight and appear to have Fast Pass so getting through Security was a breeze. Now for lunch - oh my goodness, there is a Burger King. After my experience with American fare in foreign countries in the UK, I am skeptical and order a salad. Salad was good, but I really wanted protein so I also ordered a chicken sandwich meal. My mistake was ordering it at the kiosk instead of with a live person so I could tell them to hold the mayo. Must have been a 1/4 cup of the stuff - wiped off as much as possible, but it was still way too much. Oh well, the fries and Pepsi tasted pretty good anyway. In all Greek airports the routine is that you exit the plane and get on a bus to go to the terminal and reverse that process at the end of the journey. In this case, I had arranged for a transfer from the airport to the hotel as the Old Town is some distance from the airport, but close to the port for my ferry early tomorrow morning. Discussed with Christos, the young man sent to help me with my bags as cars are not allowed in the Old Town of Rhodes. Since it was early, I decided to walk down and see what was possible. I did a bit of shopping while I was there, but prices were very high.
Today is a 'prepare to leave' day. Did a little laundry in the sink (no way to figure out how the washing machine works...) and made use of the handy pull out metal drying rack and clothespins on the balcony. I also made copies of the instructions for my next stay as I've found the internet to be not so reliable here. And, I caught up the blog a little bit, checked email, etc. Then watched Lord of the Rings: Fellowship of the Ring, again.
So, about that yummy Greek salad... Either it or maybe too much LMNT did not sit well with my tummy. I almost decided to stay in today. However, I didn't come to Greece to sit on the couch and watch TV.
Mount Olympus National Park. I stopped at the information office to pick up a map, and was allowed to photograph the one on their wall – no paper copies available. As I was leaving, the ranger (?) asked if I would be willing to give a young couple a ride up to Prionia, where the road stops due to storm damage. They wanted to hike to the top, but would appreciate a ride up the first 7.3 miles with a 3,671ft elevation gain. That’s just to Prionia, the hike to Mytikas is another 4.8 miles with an additional 2,562 ft elevation gain. At first I said no, but I thought about on my way back to the car and, I guess the Holy Spirit told me this was one of the reasons I was here, in this spot, today. So I went back in and told them to come on.
Apparently, hitchhiking as far as Prionia is commonplace as at one point where I slowed down for a turn another hiker asked for a ride. Told him I was full up. They were Chinese, currently living in Australia but on a 6-week European vacation/lifetime trip. They spent 2 years preparing for this trip, saved up their money and quit their jobs. He’s in construction and she is in IT marketing. They plan to get new jobs when they return, but they are just getting started – using Couchsurfing and Airbnb as they go and hitching rides when they can. I told them they should retain that adventurous spirit and they would live a long and happy life! I took all the photos on the way back down, after wishing them well.
The scenery is absolutely stunning! If you can take your eye off the road long enough to look!! Not many pullouts, but there are a few and I took advantage. A couple of miles from the ‘end of the road’ the Monastery of Agios Dionysios in Olympus is being restored as money allows. According to signage, it was is fairly good shape until taken over by German troops during WWII. It is a chance to experience time as it was. There are a couple of hikes available from here as well, one up the canyon and one down. I opted out of both.
Sooooo glad I got up off the couch.
Today was a good day for a walking tour. I discovered that, despite driving for 15 minutes a day or two ago, I could have walked to the White Tower almost as quickly. And, in a more or less straight line. One-way roads complicate things. I revisited the Umbrellas, a now-famous sculpture by Greek sculptor Giorgios Zongolopoulos. According to Wikepedia, it has now become the most photographed sight in Thessaloniki. I explored the sculpture garden, watched a repair crew work on the water sculpture, tried to figure out the statue that includes a hanged man with the only information in Greek and the dates 1941 -1944, therefore, I assume a connection to WWII. The statue of Alexander the Great is quite impressive, although I'm not so sure that everyone in the class having a stop on their field trip at the base would agree. I spent quite some time just watching people go by - the older gentleman pushing his cart of fresh pretzels, the woman carrying 3 bags of groceries, the couple kissing next to the ocean - maybe a honeymoon, numerous people rushing by on their scooters and bicycles.
When it was time for lunch, I walked over to one of the many open-air restaurants along Nikis Avenue and ordered a Greek salad. Wow! It was huge! Tomatoes (must have been 7 or 8 medium tomatoes) cucumbers, onions, feta, capers, olives, and olive oil. Mmmmm good!
Today I am heading west of Thessaloniki for the Kavala area to see the spot where Paul baptized the first European Christian, a woman from Thyatira named Lydia. Her story is told in Acts 16 13:15. A church now stands along side the river where the baptism took place and a small shrine also marks the spot.
A short driven north brought me to the ruins of ancient Philippi. It is interesting to see how small the rooms were and how close all the buildings were to each other. I spent some time trying to figure out what each room might have been - and where was the prison that Paul and Silas were thrown into. Did he speak at the theater or was that only for performances, not for religious leaders.
After the heat of Philippi, the Cave of Alistari was refreshingly cool. Although it doesn't compare with Carlsbad Caverns in size or scope, it still has some important features. Because the cave was partially flooded while the stalagmites and stalactites were forming, this cave has several helictites, a rare kind of stalactite that develops on the sides, on the floors, and even on the ceilings and grows in many directions all at once. No photography was allowed, so you'll have to look them up, they are really quite beautiful.
Today my goal was to return the non-working gps to Budget for a refund of the charge on the car, and then visit several churches I researched online. However, I realized that today is Sunday and there would be services in all those churches. While it may be allowed to wander and photograph, I felt it would be disrespectful so I changed my plans. Instead, I found my way to the Greek Agora and Roman Forum that were discovered when the city began excavating to build a new Municipal Courthouse. Once the ruins were discovered, the site for the courthouse was changed and archeological excavation began. I was disappointed to find that while the area is chained off, it hasn't prevented trash from being thrown into the entire area. This section of Thessaloniki seems to be especially plagued by graffiti as well. I noticed that several other archaeological sites were found in the process of road building, in some cases, they just raised the roadbed over it, fenced it off and went on. I did bump into a couple of cats on my way back to the Airbnb.
Here in Thessaloniki, safe and sound. However, it was a near thing. Apparently the concierge from last nights hotel and I had a failure to communicate. I thought we had arranged for her to schedule a taxi for me for 4:15 am so I could make my 700 am flight here. This morning I received a text that my flight had been changed to 8:00am but I don't mind spending extra time at the airport so decided it was fine to leave on the original timeline. However, a taxi did not arrive at 4:15, or at 4:30, which is when I started looking for other options. Finally found a card for the taxi service that I used to get from the airport and then it was a matter of figuring out how to contact them with only a US phone, online didn't work, website didn't work, and then I remembered about that goofy country code out, country code in, number routine you have to go through when calling a Greek number from a US phone. Ten minutes later I was on my way to the airport with a driver that was trying to qualify for the Indy 500, despite me telling him my flight had been delayed until 8:00. Upon landing in Thessaloniki, I gathered up my bags and headed to Budget to pick up my rental car, turns out the GPS I ordered is a cell phone and holder, unless I want to upgrade my car. Found my way to my Airbnb and actually met the owners as they were arriving to start cleaning. Turns out that check-in time for my Airbnb is 3:00 pm so I look for the Cosmote store to get my Greek phone set up. That took a while - a new salesperson who had never set up a foreign phone with a Greek sim card and plan. Then I looked for a place in the shade to eat some lunch (the second half of the spinach pie I bought for breakfast at the airport), no mean feat in Thessaloniki traffic!! Did more driving today than expected in order to find a quite spot in the shade and these folks truly do drive crazy. They park in the driving lane so suddenly everyone has to move over, motorcycles and scooters drive between the lanes and always take cuts at the light. They just drive up between the line of cars to get to the front. Definitely have to be on your toes to keep from running into someone.
My original plan was to take a Bus Tour today, but I read so many negative reviews, I decided to just drive myself to the area and walk from there. The only hitch was that I overslept and didn't get started until it was already getting hot. The temps here are about like home, except that the humidity is around 37% and it doesn't cool off at night. Thus, the 2+ mile walk meant it was a good thing I brought LMNT with me to keep hydrated and salt/potassium levels normal. About the White Tower, according to a Greek Reporter article,
"The current 34 meter (111 foot) tall structure was built on top of a Byzantine fortification first mentioned in the 12th century AD.
After the Ottoman Empire invaded and seized control of the city in 1430, the existing tower was built on top of the old Byzantine structure. It was connected to the city’s defensive walls, most of which were unfortunately destroyed in 1866.
Throughout its Ottoman history, the White Tower was called “the Tower of Blood” or “the Red Tower” because of its reputation as a prison in which many were brutally tortured."
Today it serves as a unique museum and an iconic point of reference along the seashore. After a quick lunch at a little Italian (yeah, I know) shop, I walked over to the Archeological Museum of Thessaloniki. It is amazing!! So many ancient artifacts, frescoes, pottery, cosmetic artifacts, musical artifacts, weaving artifacts, they have it all. I spent more than 3 hours and still didn't do it justice.
Arrived at the ABQ Sunport in plenty of time, since I checked in online and added my checked bag as well. So much better than standing in line - straight to the kiosk to print my bag tag, drop it off at the counter and off to security. It was nice to spot 2 of my favorite balloons, Takach Another Breeze, and Silver Lining on a photo mural just outside security.
This is the first trip where I've had more than one connection to my initial destination; flying international means you get to flash your passport at every stop. The good news for me is that in Chicago O'Hare, United does not fly out of Terminal 5-International. I had a fairly tight connection and wasn't looking forward to a long hike from Terminal 3 to Terminal 5. This was the overnight flight so I settled in. Unfortunately a couple of babies had a very rough night and none of us got much sleep during the 6 hours we had available to us. I did watch a couple of movies and spent some time listening to the current book in my re-read/listen of the Outlander series.
Brussels was very confusing for me, not great signage on getting to the Gates and I "followed the crowd" for quite a while just looking for the handy Departures board. When I did finally locate one, all it said for my flight to Athens was something in Belgian 9:50. Based on the other notices, I took the Belgian to translate as Relax your flight info will be posted at 9:50 for your 10:50 flight, but at least it mentioned the A Gates so that's where I went. And, there it was, another Departure Board showing we were leaving from A52.
Interestingly, I didn't see the WC signs until I got to Athens, I got used to looking for them in the UK, but the Brussels airport just has Toilet signs. A 45 euro taxi ride brought me to the heart of Athens, which I won't have time to explore. I'm a 15-minute walk away from the National Garden, but I have a 7:00 am flight to Thessaloniki in the morning and my concierge advises me to get to the airport 2 hours ahead of departure. So, I'll settle for a glass of wine watching the traffic go by at the pretty fast pace below my balcony and have an early night.
P.S, Temperatures in Greece are pretty close to Albuquerque, so I feel right at home... ^_^